Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just trying to workout best cam choice for my setup from what i have read bigger the cam the later the power band will be, will the power band be different with an rb30 against an rb26 ie will the same cams in a 30 have a different power band than what they would in a rb26??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360832-cam-choice/
Share on other sites

Didn't you start a thread asking this question not that long ago...?

From what I understand longer duration = later powerband but higher peak, higher lift = more power at given RPM?

I dunno, but really I'm sure there's plenty of info on it if you search.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360832-cam-choice/#findComment-5760343
Share on other sites

Didn't you start a thread asking this question not that long ago...?

From what I understand longer duration = later powerband but higher peak, higher lift = more power at given RPM?

I dunno, but really I'm sure there's plenty of info on it if you search.

nah dude i didnt

yea been searching for an hour or so just want to know what sort of a differnce there is between rb26/30 and just a 26 do i go for less duration due to the fact i dont want to be reving the 30 as hard as a 26 or because its a 30 it has a different powerband?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360832-cam-choice/#findComment-5760373
Share on other sites

Size of the engine is somewhat important - what more important is the use of the car, turbo selection, head modifications and so on.

yea thats what im trying to work out its a mostly street car that gets on the track a bit 26/30 ported and polished head, valve sprinds, ti retainers, custom hybrid turbo similar to gt35

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360832-cam-choice/#findComment-5760407
Share on other sites

some people seem to think that a RB30 swallows 280degree duration...

marko had ones around these specs, ask him...the more lift the better in most applications

yes but said engine while all good. makes just shy of 350rwkw on 20psi with dash 10's......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360832-cam-choice/#findComment-5761785
Share on other sites

My picks...not guessing

JUN 9.7 264IN and EX on a 30. Easy to put in, good idle, good response.

264In 272out for a RB26 (compliments its revvy nature)

If you want to port the head do the short turns, bowl area, deshroud larger valves. Forget enlarging the ports... the bump on the exhaust port also isn't worth much.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360832-cam-choice/#findComment-5765661
Share on other sites

My picks...not guessing

JUN 9.7 264IN and EX on a 30. Easy to put in, good idle, good response.

264In 272out for a RB26 (compliments its revvy nature)

If you want to port the head do the short turns, bowl area, deshroud larger valves. Forget enlarging the ports... the bump on the exhaust port also isn't worth much.

Matt

yea cheers ill just see how it all goes frist then get cams later down the track already putting in springs and retainers so i can just drop a set of cams in when im ready

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360832-cam-choice/#findComment-5765901
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...