Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all, i recently put a rod threw the block of my 32 ive bought another rb20 and striped it down to replace the bearings and get the bottom end balance, im wanting to make around 225kw current mods are

fmic

25 turbo

electonic boost controler

3inch dump and full 3inch zorst

ive got 3grand to play with, id be happy to make 300hp with that cash, could u list the upgrades ile need please,

thanks =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361090-3g-to-spend-to-make-225kw-on-rb20/
Share on other sites

The best bet dude would be to check the Rb20 dyno result thread at the top of this forced induction section.

in there all you need to do is go through the results, find the guys that have around the power that you want and see what they did/what mods they needed.

Probably the best way to get an idea.

yea i did go threw about 12 pages of it but its so mixed its hard too tell, some ppl are making 220kw with stock everything and more boost and some are only making the same with a forged engine 600cc injectors, computer, 044 pump, ect i was making 190kw with my mods already till it poped but that was due to me turning the skyline into a boat... long story haha..

thanks for the help though bro

Edited by 51NNA

As crazy as this sounds mate, what about this:

RB30 NA Block, Crank, rods and Pistons (Basically a running short block motor) - $50

New standard Size Hastings Rings - $120

New Standard Sized King Bearings all round - $140

Acid Bath, Hone, Deck Block - $300

Crank Collar and Fitting - $200

Head Gaskt ARP - with Fire Rings - $45

Cometic 3 layer Steel Exhaust Gasket (ebay) - $40

Tappet Cover Gaskets - $15

Front and Rear main seal $100

Cam Shaft Seals - $40

Loctite of Various sorts - $100

RB25 Head - $500

RB25 head recon - $600 (Deck, recut valves, Valve tip heights, weld VCT hole) ((I had 1 hour of porting done on the exhaust side, for $100. Made a huge difference)

Helicoils for Exhaust Side Studs $100

Autobarn Greddy Copy Chrome Intake Manifold - $350 (MUCH better than the ebay ones..!! Comes with all fittings and bolts)

Bolts of Various sorts - $50

RB20 ECU remap - $500

Total: $3250

I'd allocate $4,000 just in case.

How do I know? I did it the weeks between xmas 2010 and new year 2011. My car is running 100%. Had a few hicupps, but that was because I didn't get the head or block decked. Lucky for me, I only needed to get the head decked.

TIPS:

- You put it all together. Don't over pay some other flamin mongrel to do it. Surely you have a mate that is a mechanic. A real mate, not just some dude up the road you know of. Took me about 2 weeks to do a full assembly. Trust me, its not hard. Just make sure you find and engine that hasn't been trashed. Mine came from an old guy that crashed it. The VL had only done 140,000s and was like new. Still had hone marks. The hone I had done to it made it come up like new. Was about half a thou ovaled at the most.

- Use the standard NA pistons, and get CRC gasket stripper and spray the f**k out of them. The carbon will run off like water. Don't get this shit on your hands.

- GET THE HEAD RECONNED! You won't regret it. If you have a spare $100, get the exhaust ported. WIll do magic.

- Get a Standard RB25 exhaust manifold and port it! Don't go paying $5,000 to extrusion hone it. Get a die grinder, an old gasket, and port it. Clean the inside out. Lumps, thick areas, etc.

- Get GTR cams, or NA RB25 CAMs, and don't run VCT. Then you can do a cheap remap of your RB20 ECU, or get a Nistune Daughter board.

- Run the RB25 turbo and limit your revs to about 6,000. Trust me, you'll be smoking the tyres from 1200rpm all the way to 5,000rpm with that turbo.

- Save up for the next 6 months and get a GTX3076 turbo and enjoy 320rwkws with f**koads of torque.

There is your RB30 slapper that will take 300rwkw easier than a hooker being given 2 kgs of crack to give you a blow job.

Edited by The Mafia

Put the new RB20 in without rebuilding it.

Send your turbo to hypergear and tell him what sort of power you want, should cost about 1100 to do to whatever spec you want.

Get a Z32 for 300, get a nistune for 1200.

Get a fuel pump for 200

Get GTR injectors 2nd hand, no idea on the price but you should be safe.

You could even go for 250kw, shouldnt be a problem other than lag.

As crazy as this sounds mate, what about this:

RB30 Block, Crank, rods and Pistons (Basically a running short block motor) - $50

New standard Size Hastings Rings - $120

New Standard Sized King Bearings all round - $140

Acid Bath, Hone, Deck Block - $300

Crank Collar and Fitting - $200

Head Gaskt ARP - with Fire Rings - $45

Cometic 3 layer Steel Exhaust Gasket (ebay) - $40

Tappet Cover Gaskets - $15

Front and Rear main seal $100

Cam Shaft Seals - $40

Loctite of Various sorts - $100

RB25 Head - $500

RB25 head recon - $600 (Deck, recut valves, Valve tip heights, weld VCT hole) ((I had 1 hour of porting done on the exhaust side, for $100. Made a huge difference)

Helicoils for Exhaust Side Studs $100

Autobarn Greddy Copy Chrome Intake Manifold - $350 (MUCH better than the ebay ones..!! Comes with all fittings and bolts)

Bolts of Various sorts - $50

Total: $2750

How do I know? I did it the weeks between xmas 2010 and new year 2011.

TIPS:

- You put it all together. Don't over pay some other flamin mongrel to do it. Surely you have a mate that is a mechanic. A real mate, not just some dude up the road you know of. Took me about 2 weeks to do a full assembly. Trust me, its not hard. Just make sure you find and engine that hasn't been trashed. Mine came from an old guy that crashed it. The VL had only done 140,000s and was like new. Still had hone marks. The hone I had done to it made it come up like new. Was about half a thou ovaled.

- GET THE HEAD RECONNED! You won't regret it.

- Get GTR cams, or NA RB25 CAMs, and don't run VCT. Then you can do a cheap remap of your RB20 ECU, or get a Nistune Daughter board.

- Run the RB25 turbo and limit your revs to about 6,000. Trust me, you'll be smoking the tyres from 1200rpm all the way to 5,000rpm with that turbo.

- Save up for the next 6 months and get a GTX3076 turbo and enjoy 320rwkws with f**koads of torque.

There is your RB30 slapper that will take 300rwkw easier than a hooker being given 2 kgs of crack to give you a blow job.

Thats all good, but what about the ancillary stuff?

AFM

Injectors

ECU

Tune

Fuel pump

etc

My recommendation:

Injectors

nistune

AFM

2nd hand turbo of some sort

Pushing it for $3k though

Thats all good, but what about the ancillary stuff?

AFM

Injectors

ECU

Tune

Fuel pump

I'd run these standard until there is more money available.

Or -

AFM - Get a Q45 somewhere for $50

Injectors - HiFlow them to 600cc for $250

ECU - Already said and costed remap the RB20 one

Fuel Pump - Bosch 044 - $250

The 30 is a great idea, I did mine in a weekend.

With ancillaries, you stick with whatever suits the head and the car. In Mafias case, R33 RB25DET head is the better choice. For the OP, an R32 RB25DE head is the go (what I used).

With an R32 RB25DE head, everything is the same as RB20, it all swaps across. There is some minor modding of power steering bracket and exhaust manifold, then massaging cooler pipes but it's nowhere near as scary as some people make it out to be. I literally drove in on a Friday arvo and drove out about 1am Monday morning.

With an RB25 turbo @ 12psi, it made ~250rwhp @ 4600rpm.. 3000rpm 2nd gear launches ftw :D It seriously makes a 32gtst even more fun than they normally are, IMO it's how they should have come out of the factory :P

lol at recommending an rb30 for 300hp and 3k.....

he will need an rb25 box and decent clutch too thats at least 2k...

wack the rb20 back in with nistune, hks 2530 and supporting mods.

LOL @ you for not thinking with your brain.

He won't need an 25 box if his 30 is only running say 200-250kw. Just becasue you have the ability to run over 300kw doesn't mean you have to.

Keep it sane until the money allows and upgrade bits one by one until you have the strenght to whick it up some more.

The 30 makes way more sense than reco'ing a 20..

LOL @ you for not thinking with your brain.

Its not the power that kills them its the savage torque.... I killed 3 rb20 boxes behind a 160kw rb20...

It will work yes, but its not fair to say you can do an rb30 build for 3k when theres a very high chance of a gearbox failure.

I would never reco an rb20 just get a good second hand one.

gtr injectors

walbro pump

z32 afm

hiflow internal gate turbo

nistune

electronic boost controller

im no expert, but by looking at the rb20 turbo upgrade thread, this seems to be a fairly cost effective way???

thanks for that info mafia but before i bought the 20 i looked at the hybrid build and thought it would cost too much, i might look at doing it again but i just love the way a rb20 revs, cant beat the sound of it reving to 8500 lol, im an apprentice mechanic so the build would be covered, my gearbox is on its way out, second gear syncro is grinding, so a box replacement will be done anyways

thanks for that info mafia but before i bought the 20 i looked at the hybrid build and thought it would cost too much, i might look at doing it again but i just love the way a rb20 revs, cant beat the sound of it reving to 8500 lol, im an apprentice mechanic so the build would be covered, my gearbox is on its way out, second gear syncro is grinding, so a box replacement will be done anyways

Apparently $350 is all you need to full balance a RB30 setup... (WOuld be the same as a RB20)

Rev it to 8k ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...