Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I like your commrade's name, DucksNuts :yes:

EDIT: Also IS-7 researched before 7.3, woot!

Nice, I'm trying to get enough credits together to buy an is4 before the patch, without selling any other tanks. 1 million credits to go lol

  • Replies 376
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I've seen worse.

I will see if I can find the screenshot of the one I had with 12 tanks - well if you want to call it that as it was all T8 spg's except me in my T54 and the enemy team had a T34 and my team one without loosing a tank :P

also

Type 59 is on sale again - http://worldoftanks....ft-shop-offers/

and a Bonus Code - ENDWARNA

http://worldoftanks....day-bonus-code/

In honor of Victory Day and the ongoing Military Month specials we are pleased to offer you a fantastic bonus code:

Extra Combat Rations - x5

Case of Cola - x5

Chocolate - x5

Improved Combat Rations - x5

Strong coffee - x5

1 day Premium Time

Edited by Damit

I am unsure about the type 59. It isn't really all that great of a tank, it had the same nerfs as the T-54, some new weak spots put in and had it's MM changed pretty quickly.

Probably don't need any more credit making power with:

Lowe, T34, Pz38H, T14, Churchill and T-127

The Churchill is going to be an absolute monster after 7.3. The T14 even does OK. It's funny fighting Churchills and T14s in my teir 5 Hvy premiums. Most of them have no clue where to shoot. The Churchill drivers often think they can take the T14 head on, this is not the case and you just pump shells through the drivers machinegun port. Churchill vs T14 they nearly always let me get to their side and plink their engine over and over.

Meh, IS-4 feels weaker compared to back in T9, armor doesn't seem to bounce anything now.

IS-8 also has f**k all armor for T9 & gets pentrated easily by everybody.

Edited by Mayuri Krab

Saw an IS-8 bounce a T110 shot so it can't be all bad.

Sold the KV-1, KV-2 and T-150 without playing a single game in them. Kept the KV-3 just because I don't like the gap in my Russian tech tree.

Finally bought the 704

Me20Gusta.png

I now have a BL-10 AND armour

79644cd774e764847ca923c2ceaa36b5.png

KV-3 is easily my favourite T7 tank now.

In the ideal game (I'm the only T7 everyone is T6 or lower + no/little arty) it is pwnage time!

The upgraded 122mm can KO lower tiers in 1 hit & the reload time is much improved over the old 122 it had back in T6.

It also gets a beasty T9 engine upgrade so the speed is decent for a heavily armored heavy.

Only real problem is the terrible turrent rotation & you will get T50s swarming around you like files, but I usually ignore them (unless there is arty) as they can't pentrate you pretty much anywhere with their pee-size guns.

Edited by Mayuri Krab

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...