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  • 2 weeks later...

If you can do this cost effective with your effort and parts you could make some good money.

Nobody who has a leaky ABS wants to buy 2nd hand and new the price is out of this world.

Some even remove ABS all together after getting a leak.

It seems that in my case it was working, it just had some leaks. Tomorrow I should have it all back together if I get the rest of the orings. Not all the orings could be replaced at this stage.

If I can get hold of some 9mm ID x 1.5 EPDM and some 008Q EPDM quad rings that will only leave 1 part which will have to be ever so slightly modified to accept an off the shelf round oring.


Unfortunately trying to fix these units can be like chasing your tail; most of our customers have ended up removing the ABS all together. If you'd like a quote on the components require (new master, lines, brackets...) drop me a line.

Cheers,

Andrew

im just wondering why do you need o rings for? the brake lines do you need to cut or it can be bend to make it fit?

Oo la la! nearly done. Oring shop forgot one oring and 2 others are not fitting well.

I am rebuilding my R32 GTR ABS unit. The orings are so old they are no longer round and no longer sealing properly.

If your talking about the R34 GTR ABS unit then you need to make new lines. Google up some pics of R32 and R34 GTR engine bays and you will be able to spot the differences.

now only to figure out the proper wiring >_<

I am rebuilding my R32 GTR ABS unit. The orings are so old they are no longer round and no longer sealing properly.

If your talking about the R34 GTR ABS unit then you need to make new lines. Google up some pics of R32 and R34 GTR engine bays and you will be able to spot the differences.

The rebuilt ABS unit is back in and (partially) bled. Took it for a spin around the block and will check for leaks tomorrow.

To bleed it properly the ABS unit needs to be operated while it's being bled with pressure. When you start the car it runs the ABS motor, but I'm not sure if its actuating the solenoids.I have a feeling these were pre-bled at the factory then installed.

Next step is to monitor the ABS with an oscilloscope so I can make a bleeding tool. Then I can bench test whole unit :)

  • Like 2

Touche :)

I went through every o-ring that was needed, measured the grooves they sit in and used an o-ring calculator to calculate what o-rings would give the optimum squish then measured all of the new o-rings once they were in their respective grooves to ensure that they were what I calculated. Any o-ring I put in has squeeze within a certain range so that the o-ring will seal and not tear from over compression.

Something I cam across while fiddling with the ABS was that some ABS pumps, probably later ones, had a different design of check valve that aren't prone to leaking. The ones that leak easily are a poor design. I have one which I will pull apart to see if they did anything different internally.

Edited by dontfeelcold

have you tested if the abs kick in and there is no air in the lines?

Yes, in a safe place, but I already bled the entire ABS unit, so there is no air whatsoever in it.

ABS is not leaking and I managed to fully bleed it. Had to power up the abs motor and the solenoids and then you can bleed it properly.

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