Brake Grade Upgrade For My R33 Gts-T

[Tweaky]

Whole kit that I put together for a group buy on these forums. 6 Piston calipers 330mm rotors. I just wrote the DIY up so should be up shortly.

Looking forward to reading it mate I'll put some pics up once all is installed on my car. Should get parts next week off Just Jap .

Edited April 29, 2011 by Tweaky

[Touge Kyousou]

The Ku36's are S compounds lol.

S compounds off the top of my head

KU36, re-01r, re11s, rt615, ad-07, ad-08, ventus rs-3, direzza star specs.

All S compounds won't be great in the wet.. that's the trade off for better dry handling. If you're looking for the best of both worlds (dry and wet), you'll have to prepare to spend big bucks on some Pirellis or Michelins.

Actually... there is one S compound that is designed for wet being the Toyo R-1R's so check these out. From what i've read, they do wet decent and because they are made of an S compound material, is still great in the dry.

To the poster that can stand on his KU36's, weird.. i can't stand on my brakes, i still need to modulate (i don't have ABS though) and have braided lines etc so there's no line ballooning etc.

[Tweaky]

The Ku36's are S compounds lol.

S compounds off the top of my head

KU36, re-01r, re11s, rt615, ad-07, ad-08, ventus rs-3, direzza star specs.

All S compounds won't be great in the wet.. that's the trade off for better dry handling. If you're looking for the best of both worlds (dry and wet), you'll have to prepare to spend big bucks on some Pirellis or Michelins.

Actually... there is one S compound that is designed for wet being the Toyo R-1R's so check these out. From what i've read, they do wet decent and because they are made of an S compound material, is still great in the dry.

To the poster that can stand on his KU36's, weird.. i can't stand on my brakes, i still need to modulate (i don't have ABS though) and have braided lines etc so there's no line ballooning etc.

Have had a good look around for tyres & come across Nitto NT05 tyre. Very similar to the Kuhmo Ku36 , but preforms better in the wet . Seems pretty good value for money , so going to give it a go !

[PM-R33]

Did you guys that went to the Ksport/D2/G4 etc. brakes upgrade the master cylinder at all?

[Duncan]

nope, no need to. It's the overall area of the pistons that matter, I haven't done the numbers but 8x small pistons is about the same as 4x stock pistons.

how are the wilwood pistons for area compared to stock? Are you happy with master cylinder/pedal feel and front/rear balance

[a20089]

Duncan, What do you think of the AP racing kits 4.5-5.5K?

[PM-R33]

nope, no need to. It's the overall area of the pistons that matter, I haven't done the numbers but 8x small pistons is about the same as 4x stock pistons.

how are the wilwood pistons for area compared to stock? Are you happy with master cylinder/pedal feel and front/rear balance

The GTST piston area is slightly less than the Brembo piston area and the Wilwoods are slightly more than the Brembos. So it puts a little bit more bias to the front. Hence why I thought I would ask about the K sports to see how they were.

Everything seems fine with the new bakes and I love them (I wrote up a bit of an update in my DIY thread).

The only thing I noticed is the "bite" point of the brakes seems a little bit lower down. I'm completely used to it now but figured if a master cylinder upgrade would be beneficial it might be something I can look into.

[Duncan]

Duncan, What do you think of the AP racing kits 4.5-5.5K?

they are exactly what I would buy if budget was not an issue. They are a thoroughly developed and tested caliper with an excellent range of pads available.

The only thing I noticed is the "bite" point of the brakes seems a little bit lower down. I'm completely used to it now but figured if a master cylinder upgrade would be beneficial it might be something I can look into.

Well that is pretty much how I felt about the g4 ones, there is a little more travel but, to me, nowhere near enough of a difference to go through the pain of a master cylinder change. The pedal is still perfectly progressive and reliable, you very quickly forget what it used to feel like and it becomes normal

BTW re potential bias changes....on the street its not an issue unless it is really screwed (eg 1 tonne ute in the wet). On the track it depends on what sort of suspension etc you are running. On very firm suspension you would benefit from more rear bias, even from stock. But under any sort of normal suspension the static weight is around 66/33 front in a GTR, and that moves to more like 80/20 or more (close to 0 sometimes) under hard braking. With that sort of weight you do not want rearward bias.

[ssxRicho]

In the 33 Dave and I have the opposite (ABS and non ABS). The pedal when cold is very very high, so high that heal tow is very hard. Once warm it is still high but not overly so. This maybe to do with the pad as well.

As for bias, there is more to the front for sure. Not enough to even think about changing the rear caliper though. You still get the rears squirming around under hard load anyway.

[PM-R33]

Well I had a stupid bitch pull out of a side street in front of me today while doing 60kmh and had to smash the brakes and swerve into the other lane.

Brakes bit hard and ABS was easily engaged and I pulled up with plenty of room thank god. So a nice little unexpected test lol. Definetely want to get some good tyres on there though.

With regards to the master cylinder Duncan I think you are right. It is only minor so I will just leave it as it is.