Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I have a fairly substantial leak coming from the rear attesa system.. I have stuck my head under there and there appears To be the attesa unit above the diff and there is a lot of fluid on a wiring plug coming out of the unit. Has anyone got any pics of the unit out of the car and if it is possible fluid is coming from a switch?

Any help would be great!!

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362375-r32-gtr-rear-attesa-leak/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks endless, mine looks like it's leaking from the other side, looking from the drivers side just in front of the diff. Thanks for the pic.. It gives me a much better idea of what I'm looking at. Did you take this off the car without taking the diff out? Or did you need to remove the diff?

I'm not sure I can fix the leak with it still on the car.. I'm dreading having to take it out though.

That's not my picture, just a borrowed one!

You have to remove the diff to get to it. I will check mine on drivers side to see if it is wet there, mine is a pretty decent leak too as it drained the reservoir last time enough for the 4WD light to come on after a short time (only just got the system working due to other issues)

Unfortunately for me, i have JUST replaced all the diff mounts so i had access to it but didn't know it was leaking! :(

Edited by endless

Mine is the same, I fill the reservoir and within a couple if days it's almost empty... Leaving behind a trail of everywhere I've been over the two days. The light is on and I haven't refilled it, of late because it empties too quick. Is it possible the unit would have Shat itself with no fluid? I'm thinking when I get it off I should probably just replace it with a known working unit. Problem is getting the car off the road as I have no spare..

Pull your 4WD fuse for now as this will stop it from leaking out any more fluid. I'd think the unit would be working as long as you didn't run it bone dry. I'd bleed it once leak fixed though.

Just checked drivers side on mine... looks dry. Mines definitely the other side.

Ahh, after some more searching think i have found my problem;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/328036-r32-hicas-pump-pressure-switch-replacement/

I found the bleed mico was talking about, here is a useful bleeding guide showing location.

http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/01/bleeding-attesa.html

Great work mate, i look forawrd to getting the sucker off and having a look at it. If the fluid is traveling along the wiring then that could be my problem too. I reckon before I take it off I'll fill the reservoir, jack it up and then remove the white clip under the dash to actuate the pump.. Then just hope I can see the leak and be able to get to it with it still in the car. I hope the pump is still working!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...