Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi putting up my 32 as ive just finished building it

i got it with a turbo 25 in it off a so called "mate"

then when i did a compression test found out it had a piston with 70psi compression so the game began

decided to go a little different direction than most

also have it for sale

Engine:

RB25DE series 2 with 120000ks

Exhaust:

extractors to high flow 3inch cat to straight thru 3 inch wink.gif

Suspension:

NRG adjustable coilovers

adjustable castor rods

Wheels:

17x9.5 +18 drift teks

painted white with rainbow flec

Modifications:

MICROTECH ltx12 stand alone ecu with hand controller

greddy style front facing plenum

80mm throttle body with s14 throttle cable to suit

turbo injectors

DRIFT fuel pressure reg

TURBOSMART fuel pressure gauge

1 intank fuel pump with 2 external pumps and a surge tank in boot

DRIFT pod filter with hard pipe very short intake

heavy duty clutch

52mm alloy radiator

TOMEI short shift kit

HID head lights

front head lights on toggle switch

battery relocated

turbo timer

digital volt meter

hicas removed

abs removed

s14 brake master and lines

gtst turbo brakes and 5 stud all round as it was a turbo shell

CUSCO 5 point bolt in half cage

slotted front rotors

front strut brace

side skirts and rear pods

recaro copy bucket seats

NARDI steering wheel

MOD PLATED FOR

rb25 engine

rb25 box

bolt in cage

bucket seats

2 seater

surge tank

external fuel pumps

turbo upgrade (from when it was a turbo car)

front mount (from when it was a turbo car)

Estimated Power:

car just made 170hp atw on the dyno with a safe tune with stock exhaust tuner said it should be capable of round 200hp with rev limiter raised and larger exhaust as the stock exhaust was very restrictive it now has extractors and a straight thru 3inch system (tuner recommended 3inch as of the sizeof intake etc)

dyno printout pretty much just goes up in a straight 45 degree angle so is awesome and responsive

and the important thing -chirps into 3rd gear even when changing at about 5000rpm ;)

just some photos taken on my phone sorry for the quality

thanks

post-48080-0-95256600-1304335282_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-78036100-1304335309_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-41588000-1304335322_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-67003200-1304335355_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-70422800-1304335375_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-91574000-1304335409_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-38462800-1304335429_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-95610400-1304335456_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-41973600-1304335473_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-40092200-1304335487_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362865-r32-with-rb25de/
Share on other sites

Love it... are you keeping it NA? If I was a p plater (in a non turbo p plater state) this is almost exactily what I would drive...

Will you be looking for more power and mid range torque?

Buy the way, this set up would be peeeeeeeerfect for nitrous... Single point, 75hp shot, nice and easy. Perfectly legal to have set up in your car, just cant have it hooked up on the street.

Also the greddy intake manifold has quite short runners. Maybe have a look at getting a spacer made up that bolts inbetween the head and the manifold to lengthen the runners for a little more low to midrange power.

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362865-r32-with-rb25de/#findComment-5792817
Share on other sites

Looking good, looking at doing similar mods to my car eventually.

XRATED he said it's for sale so he's probably keeping it NA until it says I would assume haha.

Is the car in NSW or QLD? How much are you looking at getting for it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362865-r32-with-rb25de/#findComment-5794187
Share on other sites

nar i just bought the plates ;)

did all the work on the car with a mate

got it as a 32 with a low compression engine and did the conversion and built it up

it has pretty good power the whole way thru the rev range really

we were thinking maybe a 75 shot but aswell haha

looking at around $12000 as is

cars qld rego

thanks for all the positive comments ppl :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362865-r32-with-rb25de/#findComment-5801510
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...