Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

So i have decided that while i have my gearbox is out so i can replace my clutch i'm going to pull it apart to give it a check over and replace any worn parts it may need.

I'm wondering if anybody know's of any good places where i can get parts (pref in SYD) like synchro's and bearings at a reasonable price

Thanks for your help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362930-r33-gearbox-parts/
Share on other sites

I'm about to order a full kit from CBC Bearings. They say its made by ATC (Australian Transmission Co) I think but they just put the CBC box around it. So they cant get a parts breakdown to show me. But should have everything bar the synchros (he said theres a small chance there might be some sychros in it)

Anyway. What I do know is the kit comes with bearings. seals, gaskets, apparently loctite etc and he says that company makes a rock solid rebuild kit for just about all gearboxes so sounds good

around $600 so its not cheap but for a freash gearbox its not to bad

I priced synchros from nissan today. 2nd + 4th gear synchros for $260 :O

expensive as shit, but I live in Nth Queensland so I'm limited for my choices

I got told by RHD Japan that they do not make spare parts i.e syncros,selectors etc. for the 5 speed box anymore as i was gonna full rebuild mine in my GTR. They told me they had the same problem when they went to fix theirs in their R33 GTR and said they had to buy a whole new gearbox, cause they still make complete boxes. So if you can hold of syncros and what not let me know. I ended up replacing my mainshaft bearings, got them from my local bearing shop $35 each.

Yeah I went to nissan today, only asked about 2nd and 4th gear synchros but as there the only ones that I'm having issues with

The kit I mentioned above for $600 is a good kit, has just about everything bar the gears, shafts, synchros. Ringing them tomorrow anyway so should be able to tell you whats in it. They do synchros as well so will see if they do them for skyline boxes

Bit strange they said they didnt do synchros anymore? GTR box isnt that different I didnt think..... Except for the transfer case of course I didnt think there was much difference at all. But anyway, I walked into Nissan today and they have the 2nd gear synchro in stock and the 4th gear one in Melboure. Pricey, but good to know its possible I guess?

Will let you know anyway

Ok so just rang ATC in Brisbane

The following prices do NOT include GST

Overhaul Kit: $422.30

2nd Gear Synchro: $95

4th Gear Synchro: $62.80

Apparently 2nd Gear synchro is a 3 piece part, thats why it costs a bit more. He said 2nd and 3rd gear have the same 3 piece setup. So I'm guessing all the synchros would be $62.80 + gst except for 2nd and 3rd which im guessing are both $95

Thats a guess. But anyway, the guy I spoke to was great to deal with so give them a call and talk about what you need. There branch in wagga had all the parts (Brisbane had everything but 4th gear synchro)

So for about $660 I'm getting everything that was gonna cost me nearly $1000 to source locally. Very happy :)

Nice, I've been tempted to just throw a new GB at it. I wonder if anyone supplies the new box cheaper than Just Jap?

You'd be hard pressed to find a new one from anyone else. Guessing its a genuine Nissan Item that is sourced from Nissan Japan. So therefore expensive lol

I recieved the parts from ATC This morning having ordered it yesturday afternoon at about 3:30pm, so great service. The synchros I ordered are genuine Nissan items to, so very happy

Will post up a photo of the kit before it goes in if I remember (not sure when the gearbox is getting pulled apart yet)

Nice work, what brand are the bearings & Seals? Price is cheap to buy as the kit. Reseller price from CBC was only marginally cheaper than this. I also rang ATC and they are genuine Synchro's 2nd was the $95ish, 3rd was $127ish, 4th $60ish. How many bearings are in the kit total?

Thanks for the pics.

Yeah I have genuine Nissan 2nd and 4th gear synchros from ATC, pretty happy cause Nissan here wanted $280 for them

They look like they might all be NSK bearings. All have Japan on them anyway, only pulled two out to check

Seals have TTN or something on them, but look pretty good

Pretty happy it has all the bearings and needle rollers in it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...