Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


New Problem, Turbo Heat Problems


Recommended Posts

ok so, i got a rb20det, and the engine temp is fine not over heating. but the water line to the turbo is boiling, i can hear it and when i touch it, its moving so thats pretty hot but i thought it should be the same temp as the motor cos the lazer temp reader was reading the water hose that runs from the turbo to the motor at 199 degrees... should i worry?

Edited by andyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

a misfire as in your other thread causes unburnt fuel to exit the engine and be burnt when it hits the exhaust which may be heating the turbo up more than the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

true but i have fixed that miss fire, so that shouldnt be the case anymore....?

a misfire as in your other thread causes unburnt fuel to exit the engine and be burnt when it hits the exhaust which may be heating the turbo up more than the engine.

Edited by andyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

the temp of the metal line coming out of the turbo may well be higher than the actually coolant temp. that said, if you are worried, get yourself an aftermarket water temp gauge. as long as the overall coolant temp is ok i think that is the main thing, but you might be best off posting in the forced induction section.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah it was a little confusing as stream of consciousness. To be clear I’m referring to a failure in a NEO turbo where you have another MAP sensor or something similar teed with the OEM MAP sensor for whatever reason. 
    • Cheers for the feedback. Yeah I've already got the superpro outer adjustable bushes, been in for about a year now. Bought the inner non adjustable superpro bushes last week and planning to install this week/next week. I'm kinda set on going polyurethane path to help stiffen things up a bit and longevity. RE: Is there a good quality aftermarket replacement arm which already has new bushings but also adjustable camber? Rather than the eccentric bolt? Yep, Hardrace and Cusco do them about $450-$500. Rubber bush.  Would have been the easier option.
    • I have this issue with my 08 v36 sedan that has only had 98 in it last 10 years, and Im pretty sure my mechanic puts k&n in when servicing. Could it really be that simple? I've been shopping around to get it fixed, but being so cold in Adelaide, it doesn't make the noise.
    • That's somewhat of a mixed message or confabulation of two different things. Point 1. Yes, it is generally a bad idea to tap anything into the FPR connection because when it goes wrong the lean condition is very destructive. No, it doesn't go wrong often, but when it does, it is usually because the ignorance of the failure mode is combined with sufficient general ignorance that the failure becomes more likely through ineptitude. Thus, it is generally easier to simply say "don't do it" than try to have a nuanced discussion. Point 2. The Neo's boost sensor "failure mode" should you tap into its connection and have that connection fail is not severe at all. But this is where the confabulation occurs, because you made it sound like tapping into the FPR on a Neo was not as bad. There wasn't any need to bring the Neo's boost sensor up as it was lacking in relevance, even with its previous mention in this thread. /pedant mode.
    • A few things to consider: Is there a good quality aftermarket replacement arm which already has new bushings but also adjustable camber? Rather than the eccentric bolt? Many years ago I replaced all my bushings front and rear with superpro polyurethane bushings. Sure they've been fine. But the castor isn't adjustable and is slightly out, the camber adjustment bolts aren't the greatest and most secure way of adjusting them. If I were to do them again I'd probably just replace the arms with aftermarket ones. I used a 5 ton press to get everything out. The biggest pain is having a wide selection of metal pipe pieces that are strong enough to press things out with. The rear hub bushings gave me PTSD.
×
×
  • Create New...