Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

While we are on the subject, I was after some info. My uncle owns light plane and CASA has informed me that I can't add this to the engine due to a couple of things, 1. It's not an approved addative nor a patented product and the chemical composition is not up to aeronautical standards yada yada yada?!?!? and 2. It reduces metal integrity by imbedding it’s self into the metal which on constant revving engines can cause a decrease in thermal efficiency. Sounds a bit ‘how ya going’ to me, didn't really get a straight answer from them, but do you know if any of this is correct? Thanks :)

An internal combustion engine is a great big oversize heat pump... it relies on heat not escaping in order to be most effecient. I'm also aware that Roil isn't for use in the general aviation industry... having been a pilot for the last 4 years, and studied aircraft systems at Griffith University (I'll quote you my CASA ARN and Licence Number and that of my licencing delagate if anyone thinks I'm BSing!) And i don't beleive Roil afffects 'metal integrity' when the pinion drive that powered the 2000 Australian national drag Champion 'Sainty' that ussually has be be replaced after every second run, and even then comes out with hairline cracks, once a new pinion drive had been socked in Roil for 24hrs at last count I beleive has done its 26th run???

1roil.1.gif

Note the rather large Roil sticker infront of the right wheel!

HoeTrain, the reason CASA wouldn’t recommend it is because they are a bunch of spineless, ball'les beurocrats who will not accept responsibility for anything. They wouldn’t even tell you the time without receiving written conformation from another source (just incase they were wrong). In all honest CASA know next to nothing about mechanicals (or aviation for that matter) and are just a lot of mindless beurocrats that hide under the comment "its in the interest of safety" (translation = "I don’t know and am not prepared to make a decision")

Sorry a bit of a rant, but when you have been involved in aviation (both flying and maintenance) a our family have, you have little respect for these pencil pushing dickless morons.

id like to see a proper test done by the manufacturers... like BMW and Mobil did with an old e30 with mobil 1 in it. they put it on rollers for 1million km's (might of been miles, i cant remember) and ran the engine non stop, and varied the speed periodically. they didnt change the oil at all and when theyd finished there was very little damage to the engine (similar to an engine thatd run 100,000ks using basic oil).

if a test like this was done (a before and after) there would be no variences like driving styles. and no one could argue that your full of shit (im not saying you are)

they wouldn't have to do a 1million km test of course.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...