Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Install A New Dump Pipe

SLY333

By SLY333,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SLY333 Community Regular

SLY333

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys ive just purchased a brand new dump pipe by Turbo Xs for my R33 Series 2 GTS-T i have put a picture below of the dump pipe, should i be paying someone to install it or is it fairly easy to put on without any dramas?? if any1 knows what is involved in putting one on lemme kno, also i have got a jasma catback exhaust so will this dump pipe be alrite even though i have a standard cat??

Cheers

3150nsi.jpg

Edited by SLY333
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363502-how-to-install-a-new-dump-pipe/
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

That sensor looks like it is in a bastard of a spot!

Be very careful with the bolts in the back of the turbo, you don't want to snap them. As said spray them with bolt off or wd40 etc and leave that sit for a while. If the bolt feels like it's getting tight as your undoing it, it might pay to do it back up a few turns then start undoing it again so you don't snap it.

88cameron88 Community Regular

88cameron88

Posted
Posted

undo the sensor at the plug then unscrew it from the dump once you have it off the car if you cant get to it with a spanner while the dumps still on the car.

will give more power yes! and a different noise

sinistaGTR Grand Master

sinistaGTR

Posted
Posted

those sensors can be a pain to get off, make sure you get the right size spanner onto it as they can be rather tight and the last thing you want to do is to have a spanner slip and stuff the bolt. Also get all new gaskets and personally i used a bit of gasket cement on them to make sure you get a decent seal

cannabiscorpse Mentor

cannabiscorpse

Posted
Posted

Dude, its definately job you can do yourself. I bought my first skyline (95 gtst) a few months ago and i have done everything with the exhaust myself. All my bolts including oxygen sensor werent too bad, some were pretty stiff but you get that. The guys in the post have given you good advice with the wd40, so follow that. Im not the most experienced with cars, and usually stick to just doing oil changes etc. Im lucky that i can always get my old man to help me with my cars, which comes in handy. I would definitely have a go yourself, and if your concerned just try get someone who is handy with the spanners to come round for a few beers!

I have found the skyline to be really easy to work with, and if you get stuck this site is an excellent source to get your answers.

horrace Rising Star

horrace

Posted
Posted

All pretty easy, should be able to punch it out in about 2 hours working on your back with stands, obviously put the o2 sensor in the new pipe out of the car would be borderline impossible in the car. You can get onto 5 out of 6 bolts with a small 3/8th breaker and a 13mm socket (bottom 2 from under the car) I cut down a small 13mm spanner to get to the middle passenger side bolt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...