Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL i would have some super problems if they were hahahahaha nah one of them is probs leaking i think but there all pritty dry and brittle ... im a bit finiky now that im learning more "2nd year shit kicker" I dont need all the individual lengths just a rough over all ... i thought most vac lines would have roughlhy the same size diamiter ? might have to do some more investigating .... bugger manufacturer ill just find some kool colours and cut it properly

Mate best bet is to pull them all off take them to a hose shop and go i need one of each :)

Yeah thats probs what ill end up doing ..... got mate up road who stoks heaps of that stuff .... was just hopeing that someone might know so i could avoid having to go back and fourth (doing massive service in one day and pre bulking parts lol)

I did all mine on the R33 but the R34 engine is probably bit different. I used mostly generic hoses straight and right angle sections - there is also one 135 degree section. don't forget the water line joins for the turbo feed line at the back of the head (if the R34 has that one). That is normally the first to leak - and the heater hoses and 4-way join at the bottom rear of the block under the intake manifold.

All-in-all....good luck. I'm glad I did all mine at once in the end.

You'll want to use genuine heater hoses (4 of them on the R33). These are intricately shaped and almost impossible to replicate with regular hose without kinking.

Edited by simpletool

When I did my greddy copy plenum I replaced all my vacuum lines with blue turbosmart ones.

Got a pack of 4mm, 5mm and 6mm which was good to replace all the vac lines. They come in black if you want to keep it looking stock

Yeah just from autobarn but there $60 a roll from there and you only get 3m

Try

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?cPath=57_452_464&osCsid=68u503ejfk37sfmm2m276p9qd2

I'm pretty sure it was 4mm, 5mm and 6mm but it may have been 3mm instead of 4mm

Yeah the qld section has been a bit dead lately. Haven't heard from many of the guys since they got back from airlie. Think next time we will organize it a bit better lol

I should have gone and scouted some good spots for photos, rookie mistake lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...