Jump to content
SAU Community

Vacume And Coolant Lines Size And Rough Length

simjim89

By simjim89,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

simjim89 Contributor

simjim89

Posted
  • Author
Posted

LOL i would have some super problems if they were hahahahaha nah one of them is probs leaking i think but there all pritty dry and brittle ... im a bit finiky now that im learning more "2nd year shit kicker" I dont need all the individual lengths just a rough over all ... i thought most vac lines would have roughlhy the same size diamiter ? might have to do some more investigating .... bugger manufacturer ill just find some kool colours and cut it properly

simjim89 Contributor

simjim89

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mate best bet is to pull them all off take them to a hose shop and go i need one of each :)

Yeah thats probs what ill end up doing ..... got mate up road who stoks heaps of that stuff .... was just hopeing that someone might know so i could avoid having to go back and fourth (doing massive service in one day and pre bulking parts lol)

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted (edited)

I did all mine on the R33 but the R34 engine is probably bit different. I used mostly generic hoses straight and right angle sections - there is also one 135 degree section. don't forget the water line joins for the turbo feed line at the back of the head (if the R34 has that one). That is normally the first to leak - and the heater hoses and 4-way join at the bottom rear of the block under the intake manifold.

All-in-all....good luck. I'm glad I did all mine at once in the end.

You'll want to use genuine heater hoses (4 of them on the R33). These are intricately shaped and almost impossible to replicate with regular hose without kinking.

Edited by simpletool
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

When I did my greddy copy plenum I replaced all my vacuum lines with blue turbosmart ones.

Got a pack of 4mm, 5mm and 6mm which was good to replace all the vac lines. They come in black if you want to keep it looking stock

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Yeah just from autobarn but there $60 a roll from there and you only get 3m

Try

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?cPath=57_452_464&osCsid=68u503ejfk37sfmm2m276p9qd2

I'm pretty sure it was 4mm, 5mm and 6mm but it may have been 3mm instead of 4mm

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Yeah the qld section has been a bit dead lately. Haven't heard from many of the guys since they got back from airlie. Think next time we will organize it a bit better lol

I should have gone and scouted some good spots for photos, rookie mistake lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...