Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL i would have some super problems if they were hahahahaha nah one of them is probs leaking i think but there all pritty dry and brittle ... im a bit finiky now that im learning more "2nd year shit kicker" I dont need all the individual lengths just a rough over all ... i thought most vac lines would have roughlhy the same size diamiter ? might have to do some more investigating .... bugger manufacturer ill just find some kool colours and cut it properly

Mate best bet is to pull them all off take them to a hose shop and go i need one of each :)

Yeah thats probs what ill end up doing ..... got mate up road who stoks heaps of that stuff .... was just hopeing that someone might know so i could avoid having to go back and fourth (doing massive service in one day and pre bulking parts lol)

I did all mine on the R33 but the R34 engine is probably bit different. I used mostly generic hoses straight and right angle sections - there is also one 135 degree section. don't forget the water line joins for the turbo feed line at the back of the head (if the R34 has that one). That is normally the first to leak - and the heater hoses and 4-way join at the bottom rear of the block under the intake manifold.

All-in-all....good luck. I'm glad I did all mine at once in the end.

You'll want to use genuine heater hoses (4 of them on the R33). These are intricately shaped and almost impossible to replicate with regular hose without kinking.

Edited by simpletool

When I did my greddy copy plenum I replaced all my vacuum lines with blue turbosmart ones.

Got a pack of 4mm, 5mm and 6mm which was good to replace all the vac lines. They come in black if you want to keep it looking stock

Yeah just from autobarn but there $60 a roll from there and you only get 3m

Try

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?cPath=57_452_464&osCsid=68u503ejfk37sfmm2m276p9qd2

I'm pretty sure it was 4mm, 5mm and 6mm but it may have been 3mm instead of 4mm

Yeah the qld section has been a bit dead lately. Haven't heard from many of the guys since they got back from airlie. Think next time we will organize it a bit better lol

I should have gone and scouted some good spots for photos, rookie mistake lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...