Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so last nite after going for a spirited drive with some mates, and launching in rwd mode(attesa d/c via switch) i found that i couldnt get into gear. I used rev-matching technique to get it into gear to get the car home immediately after.

I am still able to get into gears when the car is turned off, but i cant get into any with the ignition on.

So I tried starting the car up again in first and the car just tried to move forward even with the clutch engaged as soon as i started the car.

I presumed it was the clutch acting up due to it being a cheapy replacement for a stock clutch(was told it was a 9 puck clutch by previous owner but unsure on the brand or model) and not being able to handle the power and my 'treatment' of it. My mate questioned that i had blown or wrecked the gearbox, but after some research i have found the following and seems like this is the problem:

- one of the pressure plate springs has broken free from it'smount and is in contact with the flywheel. this is why i cant shift when engine is on, and why it doesn't release even when the clutch pedal is pushed all the way down.

- broken clutch disc springs usually don't let you shift into gear since it usually jams itself between the pressure plate and the clutch disc

- if you can not engage the transmission into any gear with the engine running but, can engage it into gear with the engine shutdown, that's a good sign that either the clutch disc or pressure plate is bad.

So my overall question is such:

Has anyone had this problem before?

and will i need to buy a whole newclutch kit(looking at exedy heavy duty button or hyper single)???

the current clutch wasnt slipping at all before this all happened and it seemed to be in good condition, so is it possible to get the disc/pressure plate springs fixed by a workshop?

Thanks,

Clayton

Edited by Razor36
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363832-blown-pressure-plate-spring/
Share on other sites

If it was jammed between the pressure plate and the clutch disc you would know about it. Im pretty sure you would be able to hear it

You say you've been researching but have you searched on here? A common problem with r33's is that the cluth pivot can break (or something like this, I'm about to finish night shift so my brains a bit fuzzy) which causes the clutch to not disengage the drive.

There are othe things it could be but I don't think it's a pressure plate failure

If it was jammed between the pressure plate and the clutch disc you would know about it. Im pretty sure you would be able to hear it

You say you've been researching but have you searched on here? A common problem with r33's is that the cluth pivot can break (or something like this, I'm about to finish night shift so my brains a bit fuzzy) which causes the clutch to not disengage the drive.

There are othe things it could be but I don't think it's a pressure plate failure

yeh i searched on here, and i found that a lot of people have had trouble with xtreme clutches that have welded to the flywheel? Im not sure but its possible that mine might be an Xtreme button clutch as it doesnt feel like a stock feel at all. One of the remedies I saw for this was start it in first, rev high and drop the clutch and it will break it lose from each other but that doesnt seem to be doing anything. the other option was to put the car in first and rock it back and forth from outside the car, but i dont have another person here to help me do that, and the car launches forward in first so if i have the handbrake on it starts to squeel as its trying to move with the handbrake up.

there is no noise coming from the car other than wen it starts up it first kind of struggles to start, but then once it gets going in first it sounds fine, same as it always does, but i cant get into any gears, and once i get into neutral i have to turn off the car again and start in first to move it again.

Im totally lost on this, im thinking clutch is f**ked and i should buy a new kit, forced to upgrade i guess. Not sure whether to get it looked at by local garage or not to bother and to just buy a new clutch and tell them to put it in.

Edited by Razor36

Ok what I would do is get a second person to lay under the car and watch the slave cylinder to see if it moves when you push the clutch in

If so you have a problem inside and the box will have to come out.

If it doesn't move then check your pedal bracket, master cylinder, clutch line and fluid level. Also bleed te clutch line if possible. This should help you find your problem

Edited by 89CAL

Do you still have force on your foot when you push in the pedal? If yes, the pressure plate is working.

If no, broken pivot ball (I've broken one) like one of the guys said, broken clutch fork (I've broken one before). Master, slave cylinder etc.

I have managed to get most clutch and gearbox problems occur in the 6 years I owned my R32GTR.

Like you said, extreme button clutch, we had the same thing on a mates 180sx, welded it to the flywheel twice.

First time I pulled the box off and pried the clutch disc off the flywheel with a screwdriver lol.

Second time I just started car in first gear and accelerated and decelerated repeatedly with my foot pushed on the clutch. Managed to break the bond between the clutch face and flywheel. No more clutch dumps, high RPM launches after that!!!

Good luck finding your problem.

clutch fork moves when i engage the clutch.

also i checked brake fluid and clutch master cylinder and they are fine.

my clutch pedal is a whole lot more soft than it used to be, so less force when pushed as you mentioned GTRsean, so im thinking therefore i have blown something in the clutch, such as pressure plate or springs popped out. Plus if i had blown somthing in the gearbox then i would not be able to drive the car around in 1st gear at all, which i did today down my street to try to diagnose the problem further.

i think i might just replace the clutch with an exedy heavy duty button as I would rather be confident that the clutch is good in there as the previous owner gave me no details on what clutch it was so it may be a dodgy one that may have problems again even if it is salvagable at all at this point when i get it taken out next week.

nywho thanks for the help guys :)

Edited by Razor36

Ive got this same problem but i have a brand new clutch so its something else...

I'm putting my moneys around the clutch fork/pivot ball area..

Seems to be the real contender for me.... dam thing.

Clutch all the way in and i still can roll if it manages to get into gear,.. which it does depending on its mood blink.gif

Ive lost the feel of the clutch in the pedal but it is moving the slave so.. yea.. New box+other parts for me.

any updates on this but? further help even? haha

cant really help ya mate, i havent driven the car in a couple of days cause im fed up with it lol

going to save up for a new clutch kit and get it installed in a week or two. will know exactly what the problem was when that goes in i guess and then i will update this. let me know how you go with yours

Yeah mate will do,

Well during the week i should narrow it down, might find the problem for you and save the whole buying of a new kit thumbsup.gif

see how we go

well im still thinking its clutch welded/fused to flywheel so might try looking underneath at the gearbox/clutch/flywheel tomorow and might just pry it out if so lol.

well ive had this happen twice now,

after it sat for a while and had new push rod and re adjusted and bled etc.. it worked sweet, good as new..

but back to how it is now.. so yeah, but doing what was done it seems to have prolonged the doom haha

so go figure lol, the plot thickens. to go along with it my box crunches and grinds 70%of the time haha FML

Edited by Luke Vincent

I should get my box off during the week so will be able to take a look at whats going on...

getting new box soon anyways so if its still f**ked with everything thing gearbox wise fine then.. *BIG HAMMER* .. smash smash lol. :P

Nope havent had time yet, during this week possibly i'll get the box off and have a look, need a mate+his tools from work

But do let me know when you get it done.. i just had a new clutch + flywheel under 1000K ago so im hoping theres no problems there.. lol

  • 3 weeks later...

okay.. so got the box of on the weekend finally :P...

to only find that 6 of the bolts on the pressure plate where not done up and pretty well just about to fall out.... tightened them up, put it all back together and done.. clutch is 100%.

odd.. only just had it installed too so weather somehow they came undone or they wherent done up by the shop who installed it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
×
×
  • Create New...