Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Metal polish (any soft cutting compound will do) and a cloth bro, you can also buy a UV coating to put on after to stop it coming back so quick, can't remember what it's called now.

Edited by horrace

Mothers, the polish company not the energy drink, make a product called "Plastic Polish". The details on the label say "is ideal for headlight covers, taillight lenses etc, etc" They actually make a kit for rejuvenating headlights which has a small buff that attaches to a drill and with this polish will rejuvenate headlights. I got the polish from a local auto parts store, I just checked on Supercheap's website and they list the polish at $21.99

Try that. Regards Craig

Naive as this sounds (go easy I'm OLD)...is the milk/clouding on the inside of the headlight glass or the outside ?

eg ...do you need to remove the headlight assembly to clean the glass ?

Thanks heaps everyone for your advice

OLD mark

i bought an "invision" headlight restoration kit from repco on the weekend cos me $33 on special. comes with lense cleaner stuff to remove the damaged lense and some UV stuff for after. i saw a demo 12months ago for this brand and they look like brand new lenses after. will do mine this weekend and take pics if anyones interested

mark the cloudy/milky look is the outer face of the lense thats been damaged by UV rays. the lense is plastic and you can leave them on the car while cleaning. the kit i got says to tape over the edge of the panels around the light to avoid damage to the body

mark the cloudy/milky look is the outer face of the lense thats been damaged by UV rays. the lense is plastic and you can leave them on the car while cleaning. the kit i got says to tape over the edge of the panels around the light to avoid damage to the body

Brilliant !! ...I now understand it (after being spood fed) lol the info....I put "eyebrows"on my R32, wonder if they would help ?

Thanks again guys

the seriously OLD fella

and to see if its actualy gone come off b4 u buy... use tooth paste... light shmear... once it goes semi crusty... rub it off

Yep, good ol' limestone powder! :thumbsup:

Toothpastes (not the gel styles) are full of super finely ground (like talc) limestone powder.

Weird stuff, will block a pipe like cement, but flows like water if you put it on the ground; you can't pick it up with a shovel, it just runs off. Doesn't wet; water just beads up and rolls off it.

It's used as a neutral filler in all sorts of things. Biscuits, Toothpaste, it's in everything...:whistling:

Edited by Daleo

I used glassylite. They have a website with a store or u can get it on flea bay. 6 months on it still looks good. Has a nano sealent so don't have to keep polishing.

Must be 12 months for mine by now - still looking great.

I'd previously tried plenty of other options - toothpaste, brasso, plastx, etc. All of them worked to better or worse degrees. The difference with glassylite seems to be in the UV sealant at the end. The others would work, but the the discoloration/yellowing would re-appear. With glassylite, it isn't yet *knock on wood*

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
×
×
  • Create New...