Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I've done some searches and can't seem to locate official towing capacity or anyone who has used them to tow a specific amount...

I was thinking a four wheel drive version should be able to tow a reasonable amount?

The main purpose would be to tow a R34 GTR Vspec and rough weight is 1540kg plus a car trailer which would need to be a rented one so say another 700-800kg i'm guessing here.

Meaning pretty much it would need to be able to tow about 2.5t -> 3t.

I have been looking at other alternatives but thought the stagea being a station wagon would be more suitable as a daily and also tow vehicle?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364334-stagea-as-tow-vehicle/
Share on other sites

did you have a look at this thread among others? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/49484-tow-bars-for-stageas/page__view__findpost__p__5472339__hl__tow__fromsearch__1

also, 1500kg car + 700kg trailer..and don't forget 300kg or so of gear.

basically....in Australia towbar ratings are set by the manufacturer/importer. Stageas don't have that.

Aftermarket tow bars have their rating estimated by the towbar manufacturer and checked by an engineer. In my case the builder rated it to 2t but I never bothered getting it engineered (not the only un-engineered mod on the car).

I think it is unlikely you will find any stagea bar with a rating more than 2t. Even then you need much stronger springs at the back.

If you want to do it legally, you need something like navara which is seperate chassis and rated to 3t. Other than utes, not much is rated that high.

Why not go out and get a landcruiser 4t towing capacity just don't expect to get after market wheels to cover the 19" brake discs. But I've happily towed a few car trailers with my rs4s. Only problem was no brakes. But hey when you have brakes equivalent to non turbo skyline brakes on a car this big ofcourse things will go wrong

you'd have to really like your rides JDM to try force a stagea to do towing duty. the RB25 is no torque monster and they struggle enough as it is just shifting the bulk of a stagea let alone anything significant behind it.

i'd just buy a falcon wagon - it ain't pretty but it will do the job and will still be reasonably efficient and compliant for daily duties. or yeh, just grab a hilux/navara/rodeo.....

at the end of the day, if your track car is important to you - then i wouldnt risk towing it with a less than ideal car. Rule of thumb is that the tow car should weigh more than what it's towing......because if you get the wobbles up, you don't want the trailer telling the tow car where to go......usually doesnt end well! >_<

Youi'll be fine. Get a good towbar and a braked trailer. People are pulling Evos and Skylines on trailers behind their C34s now. Make sure the radiator and braking system is in good nick and get an aftermarket trans cooler if its an S1 - the S2 is adequate.

stagevo-1-2.jpg

did you have a look at this thread among others? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/49484-tow-bars-for-stageas/page__view__findpost__p__5472339__hl__tow__fromsearch__1

also, 1500kg car + 700kg trailer..and don't forget 300kg or so of gear.

basically....in Australia towbar ratings are set by the manufacturer/importer. Stageas don't have that.

Aftermarket tow bars have their rating estimated by the towbar manufacturer and checked by an engineer. In my case the builder rated it to 2t but I never bothered getting it engineered (not the only un-engineered mod on the car).

I think it is unlikely you will find any stagea bar with a rating more than 2t. Even then you need much stronger springs at the back.

If you want to do it legally, you need something like navara which is seperate chassis and rated to 3t. Other than utes, not much is rated that high.

Yeah I am looking at the Navara's, main reason considered the stagea's is because of price point but just read that thread yeah maybe no such a good idea.

My Forester would have a bit of a tough time of it too I think Drew.

I think you can take the advice of someone above who also has a Navara shirt, Navara cap and Navara insulated can holder :woot:

Thanks terry.

Why not go out and get a landcruiser 4t towing capacity just don't expect to get after market wheels to cover the 19" brake discs. But I've happily towed a few car trailers with my rs4s. Only problem was no brakes. But hey when you have brakes equivalent to non turbo skyline brakes on a car this big ofcourse things will go wrong

I am looking for something a bit newer and have a strict budget and unfortunately the true 4x4's are out of my price range at the moment.

The brakes did cross my mind was planning on upgrading all 4 plus rear suspension to cope but thinking navara str diesel better option even with heaps of kms.

you'd have to really like your rides JDM to try force a stagea to do towing duty. the RB25 is no torque monster and they struggle enough as it is just shifting the bulk of a stagea let alone anything significant behind it.

i'd just buy a falcon wagon - it ain't pretty but it will do the job and will still be reasonably efficient and compliant for daily duties. or yeh, just grab a hilux/navara/rodeo.....

at the end of the day, if your track car is important to you - then i wouldnt risk towing it with a less than ideal car. Rule of thumb is that the tow car should weigh more than what it's towing......because if you get the wobbles up, you don't want the trailer telling the tow car where to go......usually doesnt end well! >_<

I was looking at the M35 series 250T RS... figured the V6 turbo have a bit more grunt and newer model too.

the falcon I don't believe had the right towing capabilities when I last checked it... but in saying that after reading the other thread (didn't appear when I searched) neither dose the stagea.

Youi'll be fine. Get a good towbar and a braked trailer. People are pulling Evos and Skylines on trailers behind their C34s now. Make sure the radiator and braking system is in good nick and get an aftermarket trans cooler if its an S1 - the S2 is adequate.

stagevo-1-2.jpg

Just out of interest how much does your evo weigh in at?

I

Just out of interest how much does your evo weigh in at?

Sadly not my Evo and more sadly still not my R34 fronted Stagea!

Many or most people towing cars or boats behind their cars will be illegal. If you want a daily driver to tow a race car from time to time a Stagea would be great. But if you need an almost fulltime tow vehicle thne something like a long wheelbase Landcruiser would be better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...