Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys/gals,

I have a 1996 R33 GTS25-T Manual, and being my 6th Skyline i have grown bored of it and ready for the next car:

I have had a SR20DET s14 Silvia, a 1UZFE Soarer, and every type of Skyline excluding a GTR.

I am starting to feel the need for something less 'boy-racer'

What do you guys think of the 1998-2002 Legacy B4's? I know nothing about them except that they are twin-turbo boxer's and they are extremely good looking cars.

Can anyone tell me anything about how they feel to drive and their reliability? I can't test drive one because car dealer's think a 21 year old just wants to thrash them.

I have attached pictures of my current Skyline and the type of B4's i'm talking about (in Australia i think you call them Liberty? I'm from NZ)

post-32048-0-75192400-1305504771_thumb.jpg

post-32048-0-07187400-1305504778_thumb.jpg

Note: In New Zealand these two cars are roughly the same price on the market.

Cheers for any feedback

Edited by rorz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364411-legacy-b4-tt/
Share on other sites

It's a very well balanced car - AWD

You might wish to get a thicker RSB with HD links for even better cornering

Engine mods might be limited as many other things need to be changed if upgrading propellers.

Sound system from USA is superb.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364411-legacy-b4-tt/#findComment-5814677
Share on other sites

Beware the "valley of death". The TT's had a laggy hole between the smaller turbo handing over to the larger one.

This can be fixed by ditching the twin setup and its convoluted piping system and chucking a vf23 on it, then itll go good.

Just find a single turbo unit, you will be much happier.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364411-legacy-b4-tt/#findComment-5814885
Share on other sites

The b4s are ok. I used to work on them.

There not quicker then a wrx, dont let the twin turbo fool you. It was designed more for better torque then outright power.

Homestly i wouldnt bother. Youll get bored of it pretty quickly.

They are a nice car though. It will be realiable and comfy but thats about it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364411-legacy-b4-tt/#findComment-5815241
Share on other sites

Not to mention that if you want a wagon they're very rare, only available as personal imports.

And yes, the lag before the change to the big turbo is pretty woeful. The Legnum, performance wise, is a much nicer car to live with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364411-legacy-b4-tt/#findComment-5815258
Share on other sites

not sure what you are talking about with the valley of death (boost) mine is fine. 1st comes in at 1800 swaps at 3800 and pulls hard to the 6800 cut off. I have that drive line in this:

04012008.jpg

I did trick up the autobox a bit though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364411-legacy-b4-tt/#findComment-5815526
Share on other sites

depends.

the early BG5s had the early motor in them with the crap heads. . they swapped in the BH5 to teh WRX style engine and the boxes were geared different. unsure about the toyota ones. I know BG5 and earlier quite well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364411-legacy-b4-tt/#findComment-5815552
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...