Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Controllers - Which One For My Situation?

Little

By Little,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Little Collaborator

Little

Posted
Posted

Heya;

i know absolutely nothing about boost controllers. i hope; by the time i've had a bit of a read i'll be a little more enlightened; but additonally; i need reccomendations on which is best suited for what i

will use it for.

the cars a 34 gtt S2;

I've been speaking with people at RE customs in vic; the plan is nothing ridiculous; i'm aiming for that stage 1 upgrade as its called; that squeezes the most out of the stock parts without costing a fortune.

*air intake: done

*free flow exhaust: done soon

*boost control: planning stage

I've read the info on what i should be expecting to get out of the stock bits; so looks like i'll be dialed up to about 10 psi and left there. from my understanding that's barely using them.

The mechanic at RE was saying when they do the install; they'll give it two settings; one for the stock (and reliable :rolleyes:) factory setting of 7psi and the other their upgraded settings.

So that would be the only requirement of the controller. it would need to have the ability to switch between two settings and uuuh thats about it. i don't really want to play with the thing.

a mate of mine is offering to sell me his used gizzmo electronic controller with solenoid for around 200 bucks.

i know so little about the thing i'm in danger of jumping into a bad deal. since the whole thing hinges around this solenoid; is it a bad idea to buy a used one? would the gizzmo be appropriate for what i need?

Any advice; much appreciated.

Ad's Mentor

Ad's

Posted
Posted

Gready profic type II. A little hard to set up if you are a first timer but nothing your tuner cant do. Great quality, not overly expensive and probally one of the better ones on the market! Mine hasn't givin me any trubble but im only in my first stages of modifying the engine.

wasnt me Collaborator

wasnt me

Posted
Posted

For a basic set up like your doing there is no need to spend much cash on boost control

get one of these.....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/73375-i-found-a-good-cheap-boost-controller-for-22/page__hl__loose

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

if you just want one setting, then change the actuator spring

no need for a controller at all

also

running dual stage boost or "high" and "low" just allows for failures and over-boosting

ie if you cant safely run "high" then why run it at all?

run and set the car for the highest safe setting and control the car with your right foot

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

All the options above are possible but for a good ebc that will see you through future mods a gizzmo is good value, $275 delivered off ebay every day of the week!

buy ur mates gizzmo boost controller, it's good

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

Turbotech for cheap bang for your buck or Gizzmo if you want electronic controller (also acts as a boost gauge I think, so no need to buy a separate gauge).

It is a boost gauge but does not show vacum if that matters.

bluejeans Veteran

bluejeans

Posted
Posted

hks and greddy boost controllers are always going to be popular and preform well.

currently I've been using Ark Advanced Boost Controller and have to admit i love the thing, had to have a good read of the manual for adjustment - but after that it was straight forward

luvpsi Mentor

luvpsi

Posted
Posted

Turbotech for cheap bang for your buck or Gizzmo if you want electronic controller (also acts as a boost gauge I think, so no need to buy a separate gauge).

was waiting for someone to say a turbo tech they are brilliant 30bucks from ebay and if your not pushing for to much power they are great just bleed 2-3psi out of it and you should be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...