Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh wait its an EF.. Yeah probably past its useby date :laugh:

just about any car is reliable if its serviced properly so your question is pretyy silly.. What sort of car do you want. Id be getting an SP20 mazda or SR2 ford for about 10k personally if you still want a hatch that is

actually just saw a sss pulsar hatch for 6500 looked nice, post some pics later

well I always serviced the civic every 5,000kms due to it being old it had nothing but problems....sss pulsar go hard from what I read might have to look into it

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what sort of "in town" driving is it? if it is on motorways,, expressways, etc then you will get dramatically better economy than someone in stop/start traffic.

Tulla to Brighton daily

Driving to SYDNEY get 700km to tank. Best mate didn't believe me till he used it.

get a magna

...with a cat back :whistling:

You should be looking for a big aussie 6, since you are doing highway ks.

A smaller car eg. civic/corolla/pulsar will not really save you much fuel for highway use. But for urban use, definately.

You also need to factor in servicing and parts - Commodore and Falcon will always be the cheapest to service, negating the service costs for a smaller car.

I'm looking at buying a daily in a few months too, don't really need one atm coz I walk to work. I've heard N15's were pretty decent and the GA16 is pretty reliable too - anyone think any different?

I can say these cars are bullet proof, never any problems.

Workmate has one (5 speed manual), clocked up 280,000km, original owner.

One of my friends has one (4 speed auto), clocked up 310,000km, second owner.

They just get the cars regularly serviced.

is that freeway, noosa and back yeah. Our honda gets about that around town and as much as 800 per 55lt on the highway. My bt50 does 650 to 700 per 55lt.

mostly highway, but it's far from being a flat trip. about 2.5kms from work heading home there is a 1.2km long hill that is just under 10%, and since the car has to be in 3rd it does increase the fuel usage, espeically since the car is still coming up to temp and on cold start enrichment. best i've gotten out of the commodore so far was 8.76L/100kms. the best out of the pulsar was 6.5L/100kms on a trip, but generally it is in the mid 7's to low 8's, but that's driving normally and not being a granny.

...with a cat back :whistling:

You should be looking for a big aussie 6, since you are doing highway ks.

A smaller car eg. civic/corolla/pulsar will not really save you much fuel for highway use. But for urban use, definately.

You also need to factor in servicing and parts - Commodore and Falcon will always be the cheapest to service, negating the service costs for a smaller car.

LOL.

as for not getting much better economy, yeah on a highway trip you will save anywhere from 1 to 2L/100kms, which is bugger all, but round town the economy difference will be double that.

N15 is an excellent choice.

+1. the missus car (my old car) is a n15 SSS. very nice car to drive, decent on fuel. goes pretty good, and hasn't missed a beat in the 8 years we've had it. i got the commodore because we needed a second car and i wanted something cheap and comfy (can't beat aussie cars for seat comfort) to rack up the kms on (125km round trip to work everyday).

get a magna

I've got a Magna all wheel drive, amazing handling, very low running and insurance costs, a keeper and I mean it. Mentioned to me by a colleague who worked with police when they ran them and liked them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...