Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Of prime importance is having no preload when you set them up. Find a level area to ensure equal height of each axle.

There should be an adjustment on the drop link to set up each corner. I have never installed a kit from scratch, only adjusted them once installed. from what I've seen they are a pretty easy install.

Hi B1, the best way to do them is on ramps. That way, when you tighten up the bolts on the link bushes, they are not going to twist when you lower the car down to normal height. If you don't have ramps, then you can jack it up. Just don't tighten the links bushes excessively and make sure you grease the side surfaces of the link bushes. They have nylock nuts so they won't come loose. Only use the supplied grease, as it is guaranteed not to affect the polyurethane that the bushes are made of. The most import greasing points are the large pivot bushes that the bars rotate in.

Hope that helps

thanks sydkid. ok heres what ive learnt sofar.

1. the car should idealy be sitting on an even surface (hoist or ramps) so theres no preload on the bars.

thats about it...haha

another question.....when i decide to lower my car, b/c the car sits lower and im sure some camber and stuff have changed....does this affect the swaybars?? as in would i need to re-install them after lowering it so its set to the new ride height??

cheers guys

another question.....when i decide to lower my car, b/c the car sits lower and im sure some camber and stuff have changed....does this affect the swaybars?? as in would i need to re-install them after lowering it so its set to the new ride height??

cheers guys

Hi B1, not enough change to worry about.

Hi NRB, if the bushes were not lubricated enough then they would stays twisted and wear out a bit quicker.

It's not a major issue, but if you can avoid it, then do. If it's too hard, don't stress over it.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys.......they finally arived yesterday. im abit stumped as to where everything goes. ive attached a pic of what i think how the rear swaybar should be assembled. am i right? are the washers in the right place? is everything in the right direction?? where do i have to grease??

the front ones just came with 2 urethane bushy things to replace the old ones. thats normal isnt it?

feel free to draw on the pic and repost it up:D:D

anyone??

well had a go at takin the front stock one off yesterday. was able to take one nut off the bracket that holds the bush but couldnt reach the other one that sits above and behind the radial bush/rod thingy. looked like i had to unbolt the that to get to the bracket nut. is there any other way to do this?? looks like i might have to take it to a mech afterall:(

hey guys.......they finally arived yesterday.  im abit stumped as to where everything goes.  ive attached a pic of what i think how the rear swaybar should be assembled.  am i right?  are the washers in the right place?  is everything in the right direction??  where do i have to grease??

the front ones just came with 2 urethane bushy things to replace the old ones.  thats normal isnt it?

feel free to draw on the pic and repost it up:D:D

Pretty much spot on, the large washer goes under the bolt head, on the outside of the bush (not between the bush and the bar). Grease goes on;

*between the bush and the bar

*around the bush in the eye link

*on the ends of the cotton real bushes where they go under and over the lower control arm

thanks sydkid. i ended up just gettin a workshop to put em on....now i think i regret it. i think they put the rear one on wrong. ive attatched a pic. it was done on a hoist. looks like they over tightened the nut up top and when they lowered it its twisted. also is the sway bar meant to sit on the inside or outside of the bush cause it also looks twisted.

love the way the car feels now...i could feel that it was alot stiffer pullin out of the workshop. cant wait for the next suspension mod.:):D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...