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Ah ok, yeah those Jap springs are ultra-beefy. I bought some second hand adjustable JIC's but when I went to put them in I found one of them had a leaking seal, so I took them back for a refund. I was almost tempted to let the shop fix them for free (which they offered), but then they were telling me about how hard the ride would be and stuff, so they effectively talked themselves out of a sale :D I don't like harsh rides at all, I prefer to use sway bars to control body roll.

Anyway, good to hear you got it all sorted, and I'm glad that the lever method didn't wreck your seat :)

hmm i think i'll have to try and use this seat removal method. theres this loud clunking noise coming from the rear left everytime i take a corner. sounds like it kinda slides a bit, wen i enter the corner i hear it move and then wen i come out i can hear it move back. first i thought the jack at the back was lose, but the noise was still there after i secured it. so i figure it must be something between the backseat and the boot.

not sure what it could be coz i've never removed the seat, but i'm assuming its something metal. any ideas?

If it's REALLY loud, it could be the top of your bump stop hitting up against the mounting on the car or the stud snapping/stripping off or something. I got a really loud noise like that every now and then when I hit a bump, and when I pulled the seat out I found that one of the studs had broken because I overtightened it. I don't actually know what the noise was exactly but it was something to do with that. When I replaced the broken stud the noise stopped.

If it's not too loud it could be your missing central seat belt rattling around under the seat? :D Either way it's no big task to pull the seat out and put it back together, just set yourself a spare half hour or so to work it all out and do the job.

One problem I did have - when I removed the shocks/spring combination, using spring compressors, I tried to take the top bit off the shocks, to release the spring (basically wanted to test the shock with the spring off) - There's a12mm (i think) nut on the top of the shock - you need a shifter to stop the shock from turning when taking the top 12mm nut off the top of the shock - However, my bl00dy nut was on so tight I busted the top bit (that the shifter was holding) off the top of my shock - Now i'll never b able to take the spring off the shock. (Maybe with an angle grinder). May be a good excuse to get whole new back suspension ???

if you use a 1/2 inch impact gun (Pneumatic/electric) you will be able to remove the nut! there the same tools you see racecar mechanics removing the wheels from the racecar! the action of the impact gun moves so fast that the shaft hardly gets the chance to move!(have snaped the same thing on a customers car and had to use impact gun!)Most mechanics use Pneumatic tools for this reason and because it speeds up the job!!

This is the easiest way that I know to remove the nut with out useing a grinder!!! :confused:

MEGA

P.s now all you need to do is find someone with a compessor and impact gun that you can use/borrow when you do the job!(or you could take the strut to them!!)

well, i got my backseats out today... just put one hand under each side and lifted. Came out easily.. maybe it helps that the seatbelts were only put in 2days ago, so they have already recently pulled out.

I also have "noisy" tanabe suspension. Brendanf, how do i remove it.. and where do I buy these spring compressors from?

Dave.

damn, after all that work i couldn't find anything lose there... all there was was a cable which lead to the stacker and i sticky taped that down hehe. but it wasn't the cable making the noise, it sounds like some metal, sliding across wen i turn. oh, and i don't have a cetre seatbelt.

after i unscrewed the two bolts i tried to lift the seat up and it wouldn't bulge, so i came back in the house and read this thread again and pulled out the big screw driver and got it done.

next im going to take apart the inside door panels, ever since the bloody guy installed my alarm i've rattling all over the place coming from both doors. hope thats not too hard.

Dave, the rear suspension is easy to take out.

1) Remove rear seat

2) Remove parcel shelf

3) Jack up the rear of the car

4) Undo two nuts at top of strut tower

5) Undo large nut at bottom of shock

6) Slide the bottom of the shock off the mount

7) Carefully remove the whole strut unit

You can get spring compressors at any auto shop, they are quite cheap.

HOWEVER, after I removed all my suspenmsion, cleaned it, greased it yup with vaso - the noise came back.

Dave, let me know if you come up with a fix.

Also, is your noise only at low speed and very small bumps ??

Cheers,

You probably also have to remove the rear wheels, although that could have just been because I have 17x9's on the back of mine.

Also if you have factory suspension or Bilstein/Whiteline suspension, you don't need a spring compressor (this is just info for anyone that has factory or Whiteline coils). You just have to put moderate pressure on the top using some of your bodyweight when installing or removing the top plates.

Haha I actually tried removing the suspension with the wheels in place and I *almost* had it, but in the end there was just no way so I took the wheels off. I'm the kind of person who will spend 15 minutes trying to do something that could have been done in 30 seconds if I'd spent 2 minutes doing that extra bit first. I can't work out if I just want to see if it's possible for future reference or if I'm just lazy in a really stupid and counter-productive way.

  • 2 months later...

I've got the back seats out of my R33 but I can't figure out how to get the parcel shelf out.

From the boot I can see two large white clip things (the ones if you squeeze them they SHOULD fit through a hole). I also see some smaller grey ones.

There are two bolts i guess holding the rear speakers as well.

What method should I use to replace my factory rear speakers? I'm damned if I can make any progress on those white clips. It seems you need the fingers of a pigme to get at anything in the boot.

Help needed.

Mark

The parcel shelf if i remember correctly is held down by 2/3 clips

arond the middle and also held in by the plastic panels on the

side. Once you unclip the middle ones you kinda bend the

parcel shelf upwards and then you will be able to take it out.

It's not any easy task i must admit but you will eventually

get it. I've done this twice, changed my shocks and rear

speakers.

Xrsist, your reply came too late.

I gave up on being delicate and gave it a yank which solved my problem.

My next problem is that my new 6" speakers dont conform to the factory mounts. I might be able to get away with using 3 screws with the factory mount. Will this be ok or will I have to make a custom mount for it?

I wonder if I can make a custom mount with a pair of sissors or knife because I dont have a saw.

Mark

ah cmon man!

buy a piece of mdf bigger than the parcel shelf it self,

Lay the parcel shelf down on top of mdf, trace with lead pencil

break out the jigsaw!!

Smack some carpet onto it,

whack the speakers and HO CHI MINH's your uncle!

hahah

DOnnie :D

seriously. its quite easy :D

I must admit, I stuffed up the original parcel shelf while giving it a yank. Both left and right extremes where it looks like there was a slot cut in the board are no long. They have now been destroyed.

How can I make a new one without any tools or money? Might have an old rust hacksaw blade though...

Mark

  • 5 years later...

i know when i was taking the rear seats out of mine i was so confused. i took out the 2 bolts a the seat wouldn't come out so i pulled the back of the bottom back seat up from under the upper part of the back seat and i saw these to plastic clips holding the seat down so i used a big flat head screw driver and popped those two F***ers out (the bottom of the back seat bent back like perfect.). then the top half of the back seat has two screws which are visible and three hooks behind you need to lift and then pull away.

  • 4 years later...

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