Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I know there's 8000 hicas threads but i think it's worthwhile to post a question on here rather than scour the abundance of info straight away. My hicas light on my dash has quickly flashed once on two separate driving occasions. I have no irregular steering symptoms but I have noticed both times it happened just after taking off (normal driving) and slight steering movements. The car was serviced on monday I figure it might be a bit of air in the system or something. Anyone got any ideas?

Hicas is not locked or bypassed all standard in that department. Will be happening soon though..

R32 HICAS and power steering is my arch enemy.

I've actually looked into get the whole lot turfed and having manual steering (DIY's online how to convert the stock rack to non-power assisted - though I'd get a workshop to do it). I'll let another workshop take a look at it before I go that extreme though.

I wouldn't mind manual steering. I love the feedback you get at speed.

Then I remember I occasionally daily the 200 with stupid sticky tyres on the front and realise it'd be a shit idea.

yu_tarou33-img600x450-11933022962.jpg

Where to get?

PSIParts make those n1 replicas.

Edit: $299 pp http://www.psiparts.com.au/detail.htm?ProductID=R33R%2DWGBL%2DCF

Also I got mine off eBay, no figment dramas at all

Even easier to use a paint scrapper, has a longer blade and has a handle as well.

OK..i have a big ugly caryard sticker on my rear windscreen its the chippy reflective vinal stuff :sick: .

I would like to remove it , im asking suggestions before i attempt this as i know it will get messy.

I was thinking of using Bug & Tar remover (worked wonders on the debadge.)

Please help.

I wouldn't mind manual steering. I love the feedback you get at speed.

Then I remember I occasionally daily the 200 with stupid sticky tyres on the front and realise it'd be a shit idea.

My power steering hasn't worked for probably 10 months, I'm used to it haha.

where to get cf film? :D

I can get it at cost and in a bunch of grades, colours, or metal look

thinking of a group buy in the future if interest is high enough

you can do a real carbon wrap on your existing blade too, the one you posted is a real carbon blade or covered in real carbon

the new carbon wrap can be purchased with clear coat already on it. , so matte or slightly shiny or wet look is available

Edited by sapphiregraphics

Even easier to use a paint scrapper, has a longer blade and has a handle as well.

the sinergy sticker you speak of ..lol is best removed with 3M or similar wax and grease remover soaked on a rag, do not use a razor except to pick up a corner to lift, they will scratch you glass.

just wet the rag and smear it on the edges lay the rag on the parts you want off and let it sit for a min then remove. wash afterwards with water.

not fatal to paintwork it will remove wax...lol and won't melt rubber. unless left on it for a while .

its a must have for any garage, it works on everything..lol

This trend of cf sticky concerns me. Luckily it doesnt look like the real thing.

I like the small CF sticky accents I've put on my R34. I don't think it's been overdone - just subtle (b-pillars & bottom of rear bar)

Mind you, I did this nearly 2 years ago now. Seems to be becoming more common of late, and 'too much'

I like the small CF sticky accents I've put on my R34. I don't think it's been overdone - just subtle (b-pillars & bottom of rear bar)

Mind you, I did this nearly 2 years ago now. Seems to be becoming more common of late, and 'too much'

there is some that looks real, I can show you real next to fake in a photo and you would be hard pressed to see the difference.

there is another option , Hydroprinting, that I was looking into. you can't tell the difference at all. I have vents done in that so you could see all three

real, hydro, wrapped side by side

I can get the seat material that is carbon weave in various colours as well, the good stuff , rated for salt water , UV rated, and burn tested for use on boats.

don't forget to wrap small parts you also need adhesion promoter, or it won't stay on in the heat, or on corners.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...