Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

anyone feel like mc donalds

quad core ;)

271063_10150231339658085_586808084_7524630_706146_n.jpg

and my mate attempting to eat IT

269438_2078054384943_1052504197_2492942_7719718_n.jpg

I had to make one for a customer a few weeks back now....the biggest I have had to make so far is a cheese burger with 18 pieces of meat and cheese...was huge.

That double double pounder is bush league @ $10. I often get 2 McDoubles and put all the patties in one bun - great value for $4. Obviously for $10 you could get 5 x McDoubles (10 patties) and eat it - would be a ton more meat than a pound :)

That double double pounder is bush league @ $10. I often get 2 McDoubles and put all the patties in one bun - great value for $4. Obviously for $10 you could get 5 x McDoubles (10 patties) and eat it - would be a ton more meat than a pound :)

im getting sick just thinking about that

That double double pounder is bush league @ $10. I often get 2 McDoubles and put all the patties in one bun - great value for $4. Obviously for $10 you could get 5 x McDoubles (10 patties) and eat it - would be a ton more meat than a pound :)

hmm so for $10 i could have a 4 patty burger and have change to buy a Heffe Bier

That double double pounder is bush league @ $10. I often get 2 McDoubles and put all the patties in one bun - great value for $4. Obviously for $10 you could get 5 x McDoubles (10 patties) and eat it - would be a ton more meat than a pound :)

Actually you are wrong there. The meat is in a ratio to 1 pound.

Cheese burgers, Mc Doubles (Double Beef N' Cheese), Double Beef and Bacon, Hamburger, and Big Macs use 10/1 or 10 patties to 1 pound

Quarter Pounders use 4/1 or 4 patties to 1 pound

Angus use 3/1 or 3 patties to 1 pound

So having 10 cheese burger patties is the same as 4 quarter pounder patties, ie 1 pound.

The number of stolen imports this week is really alarming to me. Im sure I speak for alot of people when I say the authorities need to step up their efforts to catch these people. We are relying on word of mouth to stay updated on the stolen cars, and if these people are caught by the police, we take one more step towards eliminating this problem.

Although if the people are caught by the people whose property they have blatantly stolen and abused, the repercussions would be alot worse than grand theft auto charges.

If the authorities are reading this post, please take this seriously and do something about it. It seems there is an organized regime of the same people targeting imports and driving the cars around to go steal other ones. Something like a bait could be simple enough to catch these people.

The reckless manner that these cars would be getting driven in should be enough of a sign to police to act on the matter.

I have personally run out into the middle of the street at 1am in my jocks brandishing a pool cue and half a mongrel when I thought my missus' camry was being stolen.

but which one were you shaking at the thief???nyaanyaa.gif

Does anyone know / use a courier they can recommend to get an engine delivered to Adelaide?

I can pickup at any depot this end, but would be nice if the courier could go get it and maybe stick it on a pallet that end to save me some hassle.

Any recommendations would be great. Need it from Vic to Adel if that helps

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...