Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

31 days since I got off the medication; I feel pretty awesome :)

Havent had one negative thought enter my head since getting off the Fentanyl.

Really looking forward to Medical Radiation Science studies at UniSA next year, 4years of hard work ahead but Im quietly confident Ive got what it takes ;)

31 days since I got off the medication; I feel pretty awesome :)

Havent had one negative thought enter my head since getting off the Fentanyl.

Really looking forward to Medical Radiation Science studies at UniSA next year, 4years of hard work ahead but Im quietly confident Ive got what it takes ;)

Congratulations man - it really sounds like you're heading in the right direction.

Lols...

AK47, AR15, HK P90, Uzi, Barret M82A2, Walther PPK, Beretta M92F, Soviet RPG, Spud Gun, ? Car, Flintlock pistol, Lever action remington...

Sad. I know those all from memory but not the car

-D

Wow @ brake setup.

Jenna thanks very much, I feel awesome (mentally, knees a lil'bit sore but using a cream called ExitPain which I'm finding particularly helpful). I hope your back isn't giving you too much grief. If so try the cream I mentioned; available from chemists or health food stores.

Studying daily as I'm trying to take in as much as possible prior to uni next year. Its all coming along, first time in a long time I've felt like I've got something great ahead of me.... & Its mine for the taking. =D

anyone know the vacume hose setup for standard boost solenoid on a r34 neo is?

From looking around for a while i think it goes something like this:

Intake (air intake pipe) to a T piece, one end to the bottom of the solenoid and the other to the turbo valve?

Intercooler pipe to the top of the solenoid?

Anyone confirm this is correct?

Also i have an after market turbo (hypergear atr43 550hp) will take out the manual boost controller and using the stock solenoid (for defect sake) be ok?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...