Dry Sumps And You.......

[Risking]

This is a ford Barra engine sump that is almost done.

Its using the channel type system and done for a 6 stage pump obviuosly.

There is dividers inside the channel which is something not always done. Dividers try to eqalise the oil distribution when you brake hard or accelerate. The oil will still run to the front or rear of the pan. With a long sump such as this they do help. The oil can still roll over the top of the divider but its still better than nothing

The width of the channel is critical.

The channel is slightly offset to one side and the whole sump tapers into the channel. Ill keep the factory ford windage trays with this sump as they are pretty good. It has an alloy mesh "filter" inside the channel too.

[bigmikespec]

10/10 Brad, looks great buddy.

[levinboy]

As i am in the stages of gathering info for building my engine, my question to you guys is:

For a car that will be 70% street and 30% track, will it be worth me going for a dry sump setup?? Engine will be built for response not power

Or stick with a well sorted wet sump setup, which has been discussed already in these forums

Thanks

Nick

[Risking]

Nick it really depends on your budget.

If you an afford to do a dry sump properly then go for it even for a road going car.

When I do a regoed streeter I usually fabricate a custom tank to sit inside the wheel arch instead of a boot mounted tank. Keeps fumes out of the interior and also keeps plbing costs to a minimum.

[levinboy]

Nick it really depends on your budget.

If you an afford to do a dry sump properly then go for it even for a road going car.

When I do a regoed streeter I usually fabricate a custom tank to sit inside the wheel arch instead of a boot mounted tank. Keeps fumes out of the interior and also keeps plbing costs to a minimum.

I rather spend the extra cash and know i can safely push the engine when i need to, but in saying that i have only started doing the research on it and i am watching this topic closely.

Thank you for the time and the info

[Risking]

Glad this topic is doing what it was intended to do.

You'd get away with a direct replacement oil pump as 1000's of people do, dry sump is the ultimate solution but not nessisarily the only one that will work.

[bigmikespec]

Nick it really depends on your budget.

If you an afford to do a dry sump properly then go for it even for a road going car.

When I do a regoed streeter I usually fabricate a custom tank to sit inside the wheel arch instead of a boot mounted tank. Keeps fumes out of the interior and also keeps plbing costs to a minimum.

Do you have a set of baffles in the tank Brad? What capacity is the tank?

Looking at the D.E. or Verdi pump with an air/oil separator the design of the tank can be a lot simpler which owes itself to a custom built tank that can be made to fit out of the way somewhere. As long as there a some baffles to slop the oil sloshing around then that is fine.

Shoot me your details Brad via email and will get it sorted!

[Risking]

The tank I normally use mike has a baffle plate similar to the Peterson round tanks ones.

Tank normally holds 8-9 litres, with excess in the sump and lines the whole things takes about 10L from empty.

The filler runs up where the washer bottle lives and still needs an under bonnet catch can to vent the tank into

Those separator pumps work really well. The Dailey I'm using one with too.

[Risking]

The tank I normally use mike has a baffle plate similar to the Peterson round tanks ones.

Tank normally holds 8-9 litres, with excess in the sump and lines the whole things takes about 10L from empty.

The filler runs up where the washer bottle lives and still needs an under bonnet catch can to vent the tank into

Those separator pumps work really well. The Dailey I'm using one with too.

[bigmikespec]

That would be a neat setup... the only reason I am thinking tank in boot is because the GTR is such a fat pig at the front I need to move as much weight to the back.

[GTS-t VSPEC]

This is a ford Barra engine sump that is almost done.

Its using the channel type system and done for a 6 stage pump obviuosly.

There is dividers inside the channel which is something not always done. Dividers try to eqalise the oil distribution when you brake hard or accelerate. The oil will still run to the front or rear of the pan. With a long sump such as this they do help. The oil can still roll over the top of the divider but its still better than nothing

The width of the channel is critical.

The channel is slightly offset to one side and the whole sump tapers into the channel. Ill keep the factory ford windage trays with this sump as they are pretty good. It has an alloy mesh "filter" inside the channel too.

I see what you mean about keeping the channels narrow

Is there anything special needed to be done to prime the oil system before starting the car in order to get the oil pressure up, or is the response from the pumps good enough ?

[Risking]

Some people use accumulators or electric pumps.

Normally If the car had been sitting for more than a week I'd slide the belt off and drive the oil pump with an air ratchet till it builds some pressure.

Once it's got pressure usually they are fine At start up. Works the same as ab ordinary oil pump.

[bigmikespec]

Normally If the car had been sitting for more than a week I'd slide the belt off and drive the oil pump with an air ratchet till it builds some pressure.

That is what an engineer at Auto Verdi told me.

[NXTIME]

Brad,

What about using external wet sump set up for street-driven vehicles?

[Risking]

That's another kettle of fish all together mate.

It solves the whole smashing oil pump issue. For those who aren't aware it's possible to use a single stage external oil pump belt driven exactly the same as a multiple stage pump however instead of drawing from a remote tank it draws from the engines sump via an external pick up.

I have one sump which I've done this conversion too, it has a trust extension and now an external pick up and single stage pump.

I'll put p a few photos of that setup latter.

Is a viable option for street driven cars.

[zamnap]

can a car without a dry sum use a dry sum...?

[Risking]

Not really no.

You could fit the pan but it won't hold enough oil to keep the engine feed.

I'm semi assembling another GTR sump currently for a mate. Im taking some photos of how it's constructed as it gets fabricated.

Guys can get an idea what goes into it that way.

[bigmikespec]

Who is this mate you speak of???

[bigmikespec]

Brad, check your emails dude!

Here is some Daily Engineering magic to keep this thread moving: http://www.daileyengineering.com/vq_35.htm

[Beer Baron]

I reckon someone should get onto dailey to make one of their pans with integrated manifold for RB26. bit of a challenege considering you need to incorporate diff housing too but would be a awesome piece of gear.