Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an rb20det motor, complete. Over $5000 in receipts for engine work by previous owner, has metal headgasket.

comes with stock turbo, computer

needs new exhaust manifold studs.

$500 as is

or $600 with exhaust studs repaired

newcastle, nsw

cameron

0415108348

obviously there was more work then that done joel.

we charge a minimum of $1000 to remove and replace an engine at my work so you can see how quickly costs add up when you include the labour involved in pulling the engine down, machining head, fitting full VRS kit among other parts, including head service, sourcing and buying second hand head.

the previous owner was not ripped off, if you actually read the receipts which will come with motor.

whats with everyone talking about the receipts that came with the motor i have?

wouldnt buy u parts and labour to build a forged motor buddy!!!! it might buy u a second hand forged motor, or just the parts.

i just rebuilt an ej25 with all standard parts. and the bill was $6000.

seems to be a lot of people on here with no idea!

Or instead of expressing your silly opinions just reply to the fs advert like a normal person. If there is something you are not sure about just ask the seller, there is no need to be dicks and leave stupid coments. Like the guy said : remove and strip engine, source new head, machine said new head, buy gasket, fit, head service, put engine together and back into vehicle. Now run your own business paying staff, over heads and not doing it on the cheap and nasty and come up with a better price. The reciepts are there AS receipts, if the guy who was paying thought he was being ripped do you think maybe he would have questioned them?? Sounds like a good deal to me.

Good luck with the sale Cameron.

obviously there was more work then that done joel.

we charge a minimum of $1000 to remove and replace an engine at my work so you can see how quickly costs add up when you include the labour involved in pulling the engine down, machining head, fitting full VRS kit among other parts, including head service, sourcing and buying second hand head.

the previous owner was not ripped off, if you actually read the receipts which will come with motor.

$1000 dollars to remove an entire engine to replace a head? Why did the engine need to be pulled? $5000 to fit a reco head is ridiculous, especially for an rb20.

And then sell it for $500. Definately sounds like someone got ripped.

Edited by boostin31

Thanks for the decent input brad. Cheers.

I work in a small mechanical establishment and i know that for the work done, the previous owner was not overhcagred, not that it has anything to do with the sale of my motor anyway!!

Im not sure on the km/s on motor but i believe it to be around 130k from odometer records.

I have not compression tested, with a gt3540 turbo the motor was making 240kw, i have dynos sheets for that. so it must be reasonably healthy to pull good numbers.

I can send pictures via text, so if you give me your number i will send you some

$1000 dollars to remove an entire engine to replace a head? Why did the engine need to be pulled? $5000 to fit a reco head is ridiculous, especially for an rb20.

And then sell it for $500. Definately sounds like someone got ripped.

and sounds to me as someone is making a fool of themselves as they dont know what theyre on about!!!!!!!

im selling motor for $500 as thats a good price to get rid of the motor, i have sold rb20's before at this price, it cost me nothing to get as it came to me as part of a deal.

so please gtfo out of my thread as ur useless comments arent wanted by anyone here with any idea

Wow it had a 35/40 on it? Sounds like someone else really had no idea...

Im just saying that saying it had $5000 worth of receipts and then not stating what work had been done to the motor is pretty useless, you just gave a vauge description and said it had a metal headgasket.

dead set, you just cant help dumb!

get the f**k out of the thread cos your comments have nothing to do with the sale of the motor, if you wanna whinge about someones turbo choices f**k off to the members rides section!

so what? dont buy it then!

you will find out the details of the receipts if you take a "serious" interest in buying the motor not making smart arse comments in the thread.

now piss off!

Thanks for the decent input brad. Cheers.

I work in a small mechanical establishment and i know that for the work done, the previous owner was not overhcagred, not that it has anything to do with the sale of my motor anyway!!

Im not sure on the km/s on motor but i believe it to be around 130k from odometer records.

I have not compression tested, with a gt3540 turbo the motor was making 240kw, i have dynos sheets for that. so it must be reasonably healthy to pull good numbers.

I can send pictures via text, so if you give me your number i will send you some

0408391831

cheers

there are some deadset dickheads out there arent there! lol

got 3 or 4 people keen on the motor but no ones shown up with the cash yet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...