Jump to content
SAU Community

Lewis Engine 2.2 Stroker Rb20


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hi - I have just had a rb22 built by Darren from Lewis Engines.

Should be going in the next week or so.

I will let you know dyno figures asap.[post-83928-0-74643500-1307163062_thumb.jpg9242.jpg]

Awesome let me know how it goes and your opinions of it.

What turbo are you using?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

might better value to put a 25 crank etc into your 20 and you get a 2.4L for the same bucks as stroking it to 2.2L

my bad, meant 26 crank/rods and tomei 82mm pistons to get a RB24

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Bit of mis information running round it seems.

ANY rb motor that was released in a particular model of skyline is legal to be swapped in. An r32 can legally run - rb20, rb25 and rb26. As long as the complete motor, loom and ecu are used. This means all emission gear as well, and its legal. The rb30 isnt due to the ecu used.

All rb bottom ends are the same height, except the 3lt. Only it has to be lowered by re drilling the engine brackets, then it will fit in the 32 no problems or "pain in the ass".

Roy knows the 20 more than anyone, so listen to him. As far as building a 2.2 for 5.5k...its your money. I can see the point in having a fresh motor, but spending big dollars for minimal gain seems pointless.

I think the 3lt we built years ago - even then when things cost a lot more than now - cost us 5k. Its the ancillaries - rb25 gearbox, modded tail shaft, new clutch, bigger injectors, afm, ecu, turbo, then add tuning is where it adds up.

As far as your original question OP

I would also assume the response would be alot better and more low down torque.

It wont offer the torque your looking for. Its noticeable when jumping from a r32 to an r33 because you are getting 25% increase in capacity. The 2.2 is only a 10% increase.

I hate saying this, but throw enough money at something and its easy to justify, but the cash would be better spent with a fresh stock motor + turbo setup like Roy had on his 2lt, or going for the 25 / 26 route.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, the I went with a Lewis Engine's built RB22 because I wanted a fresh motor . . . I didn't want someone else's handy-me-down RB25 with a 100k on the clock

And yes, I know that I will not end up with the power gain compared to a R25 conversion, but compared to what the car was doing stock, the gain will be considerable - hopefully 240 rwkw at 18psi.

The car is going to be at the Love of Cars Real Street Blv at this year's MotorEx on the Saturday 23 July. http://www.motorex.com.au/features/realstblvd

If you want to check it out, I will have dyno figures by then.

Custom arias forged pistons and rings

ACL comp bearings

Balanced

Blueprinted throughout

Full block machine and relieved with oil restrictors

N1 oil pump modified

Crankshaft shotpeened,grubscrewed,oil collar fitted and micro-polished

Spool h beam rods with arp 2000 bolts

Recon and ported head

Adjustable cam gears

Timing tensioner kit with gates belt and waterpump

Hi vol race sump with rear head drain

Cometic steel head gasket

Tomei 264 poncams

Tomei step 2 springs

Assembled from sump to rocker covers complete.

Garret GT30/76

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm still not 100% sure what I'll be doing engine wise.

My motor seems in good health and might last for ages.

I will prob be leaning towards the 2.2 just because its a fresh motor, I also dont like the feeling of paying money for a motor that might only last a few months. I guess when you compare the 2.2 to say rebuilding the standard 20 its not bad at all, but whether its worth it compared to buying a $500 wrecker 20 I dont know :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, the I went with a Lewis Engine's built RB22 because I wanted a fresh motor . . . I didn't want someone else's handy-me-down RB25 with a 100k on the clock

And yes, I know that I will not end up with the power gain compared to a R25 conversion, but compared to what the car was doing stock, the gain will be considerable - hopefully 240 rwkw at 18psi.

The car is going to be at the Love of Cars Real Street Blv at this year's MotorEx on the Saturday 23 July. http://www.motorex.c...ures/realstblvd

If you want to check it out, I will have dyno figures by then.

Custom arias forged pistons and rings

ACL comp bearings

Balanced

Blueprinted throughout

Full block machine and relieved with oil restrictors

N1 oil pump modified

Crankshaft shotpeened,grubscrewed,oil collar fitted and micro-polished

Spool h beam rods with arp 2000 bolts

Recon and ported head

Adjustable cam gears

Timing tensioner kit with gates belt and waterpump

Hi vol race sump with rear head drain

Cometic steel head gasket

Tomei 264 poncams

Tomei step 2 springs

Assembled from sump to rocker covers complete.

Garret GT30/76

Do you have an estimated/target power figure?

Also, are all the engine parts you listed included in the RB22 package from Lewis Engines?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, the I went with a Lewis Engine's built RB22 because I wanted a fresh motor . . . I didn't want someone else's handy-me-down RB25 with a 100k on the clock

And yes, I know that I will not end up with the power gain compared to a R25 conversion, but compared to what the car was doing stock, the gain will be considerable - hopefully 240 rwkw at 18psi.

I know what you are trying to say, but if you try to look at it from the outside view....

You are spending 5.5k to get a fresh built motor, which will only be slightly better than stock. The point of throwing cash at a motor is to make it better, go faster, perform more.

If you spent that same cash on the rb25, long motor with loom, and a gearbox...then ONLY did a std rebuild, (recon head, bottom end is about $1500) you would be in the same position cash wise, have a motor that does all the above, and have a base for much much more in the long term. The rb25 is capable of more in std form than your rebuilt 20 no matter what you do to it.

There is a reason why no one goes and builds these motors, because the cost of doing so is the same for all of the rb series.

Im not talking you out of it, just pointing out that the money spent and justifying it by saying you dont want a hand me down motor is irrelevant.

Its probably better to say "I want to build it for the sake of doing it, and its my money, so what?" :thumbsup: Probably would get rid of the people like me pointing out the obvious lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hoping the 22 rebuild will be a lot better than stock - 145 rwkw to 240 rwkw . . .

I know what you are trying to say, but if you try to look at it from the outside view....

You are spending 5.5k to get a fresh built motor, which will only be slightly better than stock. The point of throwing cash at a motor is to make it better, go faster, perform more.

If you spent that same cash on the rb25, long motor with loom, and a gearbox...then ONLY did a std rebuild, (recon head, bottom end is about $1500) you would be in the same position cash wise, have a motor that does all the above, and have a base for much much more in the long term. The rb25 is capable of more in std form than your rebuilt 20 no matter what you do to it.

There is a reason why no one goes and builds these motors, because the cost of doing so is the same for all of the rb series.

Im not talking you out of it, just pointing out that the money spent and justifying it by saying you dont want a hand me down motor is irrelevant.

Its probably better to say "I want to build it for the sake of doing it, and its my money, so what?" :thumbsup: Probably would get rid of the people like me pointing out the obvious lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hoping the 22 rebuild will be a lot better than stock - 145 rwkw to 240 rwkw . . .

200cc isn't going to give you an extra 95kw.. that's what the turbo does..

So, whatever turbo you have chosen is going to make the same power on whatever engine it goes on (as long as the engine is big enough to spin the turbo up), capacity just determines WHEN that power will be made.

200cc probably won't make any significant difference.. 1000cc on the other hand.. between my RB20DET and RB30DET with the same turbo, they made the same power.. but the RB30DET made it 1900rpm sooner!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good point. I suppose my reasoning has been more along the lines of retaining some of the RB20s character while building a very streetable, fun car to drive. I had the option of putting a 25/30 in, but with no intentions of race or drag, for better or worse, decided on something more conservative. I am sure there are many more sensible options I could have gone with, but good sense went out the window a long time ago when I started modifying a car that will only be worth 5k on a good day - and I am still spending thousands on her.

200cc isn't going to give you an extra 95kw.. that's what the turbo does..

So, whatever turbo you have chosen is going to make the same power on whatever engine it goes on (as long as the engine is big enough to spin the turbo up), capacity just determines WHEN that power will be made.

200cc probably won't make any significant difference.. 1000cc on the other hand.. between my RB20DET and RB30DET with the same turbo, they made the same power.. but the RB30DET made it 1900rpm sooner!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

bang for buck get a wrecker motor and just keep replacing them when they blow. You can get 5-10 rb20s for $5k, if you are making 260kw and absolutely abuse them it should still be 5-10 years of life, chances are the builder will stuff something up on your $5k build and it won't last this long anyway.

Personally I'd go an rb25, extra capacity, VCT and it drives so much nicer and will make 250kw with basically standard response. $1k for an r33 motor (unknown condition) or up to $2k for a neo motor however they have lower kms and are a much newer better motor, chances are it'll last forever with 250kw if you get a good example (yr 2000 engine).

If you build a motor, get an rb30, it won't cost any more than a built rb20 or 25 so might as well get the extra capacity, however buy a short block already assembled from a reputable builder, getting people to do it for you is a recipe for someone to ass something up. Still I think this is a waste of cash for what you want.

The ultimate bang for buck is sell your car and buy someones money pit with an rb30 + turbo etc already in it, you should be able to pick up a mint 300kw machine for $10-15k without looking too hard. This would cost you $20-25k to do yourself once you do everything and make it perfect, but you will be able to pick it up for 10-15k off someone else as that is how cars are.

Edited by Rolls
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

FYI - New Lewis RB22 stroker is finally in.

Low level dyno tune was done on Friday only using the factory boost of 7 lbs - the last run was 195 kilowatts at the wheels.

Tuner wants me to put a 1,000 klms on the new motor before final tune. I will run 12lbs on low boost and 18 on high.

I will let you know what the final kw output.

post-83928-0-49435800-1311763516_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Didn't read all the replys but for the price of the engine, i would just go and get a RB30E and chuck in the spool RB34 stroker kit. would make way more power and tourqe then what the RB22 would. and in total you would probly pay slightly more unless you did all the work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

FYI - New Lewis RB22 stroker is finally in.

Low level dyno tune was done on Friday only using the factory boost of 7 lbs - the last run was 195 kilowatts at the wheels.

Tuner wants me to put a 1,000 klms on the new motor before final tune. I will run 12lbs on low boost and 18 on high.

I will let you know what the final kw output.

been back for final tune yet?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I must have read 100 DIY's and watched 200 DIY Youtube videos with most people saying just grab a new cover and, well, despite my normal aproach to these things (replace it all!!) I didn't get a cover. I don't know why I didn't, I'd already ordered a bunch of bits from FCP and it would have made perfect sense to put that in the order.  Anyway, I'm not getting OEM as its just crazy money, even from the states its 900 ish delivered. So, I got an OE Elring one, same as they sell at FCP but local so I can get this fixed this week. Our X5 is waiting for a new diff so we find ourselves in a common scenario of having 2 broken BMW's on the driveway! 🤣
    • Big thing is available inputs for sensors and not having to run multiple expander boxes and software packages for different things why motec is up there. The link ecu and an aim pdm32 was a combination I looked at early on so get ecu, dash and pdm in one go. Aim logging software is pretty good and has all the tracks I will ever drive. Having logging setup with tracks already available is a big thing for myself so can click drop down and go. Thing that I keep seeing is the support what's needed and having a package that people in the know are familiar with as learning a new platform is time consuming.    Got a few boxes that arrived with bits while I was away so hopefully will fit a few sensors and make a start on the dump pipe today. Going to be interesting fitting a 3.5 inch exhaust on this and keeping it above the chassis rails. 
    • Negative Ghost Rider, the pattern is full
    • Chasing a R32 GTR dash pad, must be in good condition, no broken tabs, no holes and preferably no bubbles.   Thanks
    • What's the highest HP figure from a 26/30 setup with standard crank?
×
×
  • Create New...