Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the ride was fine at 335 it was nice to drive it was only rough as guts when i had it sitting at 310 but i didn't mind even though you did lose a kidney everytime you went over a bump lol but it stuck to the road like glue which was fun :D

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

the ride was fine at 335 it was nice to drive it was only rough as guts when i had it sitting at 310 but i didn't mind even though you did lose a kidney everytime you went over a bump lol but it stuck to the road like glue which was fun :D

It would have handled better at 335 or stock height. I don't know why people think stiff suspension = better handling.

When I got my 32 it was on its' balls and it was horrible and scraping everything got mighty annoying! Raised it up to how it is below and haven't looked back! Handles soooo much better and doesn't scrape anything :D

DSC01942b.jpg

It would have handled better at 335 or stock height. I don't know why people think stiff suspension = better handling.

your right in a sense but cause it was sitting so low you need the stiffer suspension to compensate to avoid bottoming out...stiffer suspension over stock does get you better handling but not at the stock height. by lowering the car you give it a lower centre of gravity and a better roll centre for weight transfer going through sharp bends with quick directional changes. so what you said is true stiffer suspension doesn't = better handling, but it does when all the suspension is working together and is all proportionate to the car and the tracks you intend to drive it on. don't forget by having stiffer suspension you get better response in the steering as well as being in control of squatting and diving under hard acceleration and braking, but if you hit a couple bumps and it's super stiff you lose traction so it's not always a good thing it all has to be in balance :thumbsup: but it didn't handle better at 335 cause it didn't have stiff enough springs had way too much body roll for that ride height

your right in a sense but cause it was sitting so low you need the stiffer suspension to compensate to avoid bottoming out...stiffer suspension over stock does get you better handling but not at the stock height. by lowering the car you give it a lower centre of gravity and a better roll centre for weight transfer going through sharp bends with quick directional changes. so what you said is true stiffer suspension doesn't = better handling, but it does when all the suspension is working together and is all proportionate to the car and the tracks you intend to drive it on. don't forget by having stiffer suspension you get better response in the steering as well as being in control of squatting and diving under hard acceleration and braking, but if you hit a couple bumps and it's super stiff you lose traction so it's not always a good thing it all has to be in balance :thumbsup: but it didn't handle better at 335 cause it didn't have stiff enough springs had way too much body roll for that ride height

Actually by lowering it that much you f**k the roll centre as all the control arms are on weird angles causing all sorts of issues. Making it stiffer will just compound the problem by having a car that is far too stiff.

It will always handle worse at that ride height unless you modify the mounting of the arms and/or use roll centre adjusters. Any stiffer than 4kg springs will almost always give worse handling because when accelerating the car won't squat giving worse straight line acceleration as the wheels will spin, also any bumps you hit will cause a lose in traction as well. The only time you want stiffer than this is when you are running full slicks on a perfectly flat race track.

It would never have handled better at 335 unless you had roll center adjusters. Sydney Kid did some testing and found that at low heights there was actually positive camber gain on harsh bumps so lots of things go wrong when you mess with the suspension geometry this much.

if you want less body roll use sway bars to remove it, don't use stiffer springs, people always seem to mess this up for some reason.

Where did you get your brake caliper bracket from? My god it clocks the caliper around a hell of a lot

Came off a local race car here, it clocks it by exactly 15deg (I have drawn them up and played around with different sizes). They are for 296>324mm rotors and unless you machine the adapter out of a solid block (because the offset is so small) you have to rotate the caliper to get the clearances around the bolts.

Have not noticed any bad diving under brakes or anything like that.

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...