Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a PPG 6 speed dog box sitting here which has managed to split the stock getrag center plate. Not really a big problem but i only hear horror stories of these gearsets getting destroyed.

What info do you guys have on these boxes? I know it is possible to buy an billet centre plate but for almost £2000 its not worth it in my eyes considering the gearsets cost £7000 lol

What is common on them to break? I know dogs wear out but they do on all dog boxes so not fused.

I would like to know your thoughts on them as i don't believe the bad press they get over here in the uk.

Cheers

Jamie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366316-ppg-6-speed-dog-box-r34-getrag/
Share on other sites

basically the PPG boxes are pretty good but you have to keep up the maintenance. there have been some problems but most of the failures come with people who thought buying a big $$ gearset was as set and forget option. they need to be regularly pulled down, inspected and maintained (replace worn/suspect parts) to keep them running nicely. if you do that they can and do live a happy life.

as far as billet centre plate goes yes they are expensive. Didn't think they cost that much. maybe contact PPG direct in aus? cause 2000GBP is over $3000.

If the gearset really is 7000GBP + 2,000 for the center plate then it might be worth considering a hollinger. consider that to run the PPG you need to re-use your stock box and there are labour costs to assemble it all (maybe another 1,000GBP). That's now 10,000GBP ($15,000) plus your standard box. For about $20K (or just over these days) you can have a full sequential hollinger which is a full replacement gearbox (not a gearset). so you can sell your old box (maybe 2,000 or 3,000GBP - call it $4,000AUD). so if the hollinger is approx 13,000GBP minus say 2,000 for the sale of your stock getrag you are looking at only 11,000 change over for a brand new full sequential box which are far superior. Any geerset is limited in what it can do because it has to work with a number of stock parts (casing, centre plate, bearings etc). The hollinger is completely redesigned so has none of those limitations. Plus it comes fully built so you don't have to worry about it being assembled properly.

I would look into it if you are serious about your GTR. best bit is they are lighter and more compact too... :)

Cheers guys.

Yea i have contacted PPG and they want $2600AUD plus $150AUD shipping for their billet centre plate. I have been told i need to add 31% to that in taxes :(

The stock gear set comes in at $9900AUD so its an expensive piece of kit.

I build GTR gearboxes and have done my stock getrag about 4 times now due to cracking 3rd gear snycro all the time.

I know these kind of boxes need stripping down and inspecting to keep them in one peice but was wondering on how long there should be between inspections? A hard trackday will see it coming out if it survives at a guess? but using it on a road and drag strip it must last a little longer?

The box i have has done some dyno work , and about 6 drag runs and the dogs look worn already. :( It was big bhp r33 so to be expected.

Will it even last one drag day with say about 10 runs? lol

Cheers guys.

Yea i have contacted PPG and they want $2600AUD plus $150AUD shipping for their billet centre plate. I have been told i need to add 31% to that in taxes :(

The stock gear set comes in at $9900AUD so its an expensive piece of kit.

I build GTR gearboxes and have done my stock getrag about 4 times now due to cracking 3rd gear snycro all the time.

I know these kind of boxes need stripping down and inspecting to keep them in one peice but was wondering on how long there should be between inspections? A hard trackday will see it coming out if it survives at a guess? but using it on a road and drag strip it must last a little longer?

The box i have has done some dyno work , and about 6 drag runs and the dogs look worn already. :( It was big bhp r33 so to be expected.

Will it even last one drag day with say about 10 runs? lol

they should last longer than that. excessive dog wear can be due to too many slow shifts on the street. I'm sure you know the dogs are sacrificial anyway in that they are meant to wear as that style of engagement is pretty brutal and the corners get knocked off the dog teeth pretty quick with a few slightly off or slow shifts. you do need to shift fairly quickly and firmly. almost the complete opposite of a synchro box (but again i'm sure you already know this stuff).

I would say a first a pull down after ever track day or second track day would be a good idea. after that you'll get a feel for how things wear and how often you need to be pulling it down to service.

The price seems a bit harsh but I'm not sure how else you can get it. why is there 31% tax? I'm assuming that's local tax in england? you certainly shouldn't have to pay that tax to PPG, in fact it should be tax free (ie 10% less than the aussie local price).

  • 2 weeks later...

I have been down that road, EDTI: I was not happy. I got the whole gear set, billet centre plate and everything else done to the gearbox and had nothing but 2 years of head ache, gearbox was pulled out of the car 6 times, then a law suit to get some money back... I got money eventually but I will personally never go there again...

If you want info on them just have a look on the forums... or google.... I went and bought a Holinger have had a great time since..

My advise is do the gear box up and get rid of it..

Cheers Dave

P.S mods I have got a legitimate story and other people need to know what happens when you try to do the right thing.. I would appreciate this not to be deleted.

yep agreed. and the biggest reason all the other box options are compromised is that they are designed to fit into the standard housing which has flaws of it's own. even once you buy all the new shafts, centre plates etc there is still factory parts in play and they cause dramas. it's good money after bad. buy the hollinger and never look back!

dave, I'll leave your post but have to edit it a tad inline with forum rules. sorry mate but it's the way it is. it's to protect the forum owner who is a private citizen and does get threatened with all types of lawsuits over forum content.

  • 2 weeks later...

don't think holinger have an H-pattern GTR/skyline box. so yeah sequential is the go. the only reason you wouldn't go sequential is if there was some class rules you needed to meet. cost is around $20K. need a few things:

new clutch (to match the bigger input shaft. hollinger can make a box with standard nissan type spline but don't do it, get the better spline and replace clutch to suit it)

new front drive shaft

new rear shaft

not sure which transfer case your 34 has but you need to use a 32/33 transfer case with the hollinger

new mount

that's about it off the top of my head.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...