Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I've checked the consolidated workshop thread, and nothing there specifically listing for gearbox rebuilds.

My box is a bit tired with the sychro on 4th playing up when the box gets warm - its particularly bad if I hit the track...

Any recommendations would be much appreciated.

Would also be great if anyone with personal experience with this could let me know, good or bad (pm with bad to avoid the negative-post-police though :laugh: ), with an indication of price too.

Cheers!

-Shaun

perfect transmission in bibra lakes. :thumbsup:

yeah, what was done and how much??

I've had a box inspected locally and had quote work around town and got crazy prices, ended up sending my gearbox to "Competition Gearboxes " in Croydon over east, The guy is Simon well worth a call! He can get good rates for freight so no biggy sending it,

I went through a workshop so obviously they had their mark up on it, but just to have a gearbox inspected ( at the advise of the workshop, which I no longer go to ) so pulled apart and checked, then reassembled with new seals and bearings, so no gears or syncros touched cost me $1100,:sick:

Thought that was a bit steep so rang a couple of places around town ( could only find a couple that were interested or capable ) and was told that was about right ..

Got onto Simon from Competition Gearboxes, recommended by someone on here, and he said I had been stitched up ( as I suspected ) he charged about $200 for an inspection if you didn't proceed with any work. Anyway from memory I think Simon said to recon a box with syncros etc was about $800.

But ring around yourself and get some prices they should be any to quote you over the phone if you tell them you need new syncro's, seals and bearings

Competition Gearboxes 03 97233380

Hi Pal,

Thanks, have you had a box rebuilt there?

Cheers!

-Shaun

ive had a box built at perfect's, was about 6-7yrs ago now.. was a reasonably tuff auto for a blown commo i used to have, was happy with the service

actually thinking back.. that box was pretty fkn awesome haha

Edited by ohno1

yeah Commo box is one thing, start talking GTR box and they start quoting phone numbers$ I don't think they do enough of them locally, as apposed to Commo's etc

Anyway Shaun how did you go, get quotes? $? local ? east?

Edited by tricstar

The cost to rebuild a stock gear box compared the cost of a good secondhand one is much cheaper. After new Nissan parts and labour it will be near 4 or 5k. Get a replace for about 1k and you will be fine, just don't hammer 3rd.

Went through this myself recently, even bought a secondhand box and was going to fit it and play the odds. Unfortunately it wasn't quite what was advertised, so decided against it after research.

The options I ended up with were rebuilding (competition gearboxes) or buying a decent one. Ended up finding a brand new ser3 r33 box for not much more than a rebuild. Within my budget as well.

The extra expense of rebuilding the earlier boxes is there are a few parts that are not available anymore, and you have to upgrade internals to the same as the one I bought anyway.

Edited by heller44

Is the bell housing the same on the series 1,2 and 3 boxes? So say if i had my s1 box shit itself and i didnt want to repair it, could i get a later model pull style box and switch bellhousings to retain the push setup?

yeh should be able to change a pull to push just like you can change push to pull, basically just mount the slave on the other side of the folk..

And there is no way it costs 4-5K to rebuild a gearbox :no: well it shouldn't if you go the right place as mentioned in the replys above.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...