Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all...

I was driving home from the flicks earlier and my turbo started whining when it spun up past about 6 psi... so I'm figuring she's knackered?

I was on to a crowd before in England (cos there's nobody here in Ireland worth talking to as far as I know) and they said they can't recon the OEM unit. That leaves me with buying a new one or a reconditioned unit.

Will a Garrett T3 bolt straight on? there's plenty of them kicking around here because they came on Cossies so the lads in England know them well.

Or.. am I better off getting a second hand one from a breaker in Australia and reconditioning it?

Anybody got any recommendations about what to get considering I don't want to spend eleventy on one, the car is mildly modded (Apex intake, Dual N1 exhaust, Trust FMIC) so I don't need a truck turbo :D

I'd really appreciate any help guys!

ive just put an r34 turbo on my car and i cant complain, havnt had it tuned yet and my clutch just started slipping but it pulls so much harder right through to the top of each gear, might be a thought that or an r33 turbo if ur not looking to spend to much money.

Ive got a HKS 2530 (T3 flange) on mine, i need to get the computer replaced, or rechipped, because if i run over 12psi the AFM maxes out, but on 12psi in my RB20 i put out 212rwkw (280rwhp i think). it bolts straight onto the existing manifold and dump pipe, but you will have to make new oil and water lines for it. but thats not too hard, i went for braided lines, which can get expensive.

i would recomend this turbo to anyone with an RB20 who wants a perfect street car. you dont loose alot of bottom end, but get alot of mid and top end power gains.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...