Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all...

I was driving home from the flicks earlier and my turbo started whining when it spun up past about 6 psi... so I'm figuring she's knackered?

I was on to a crowd before in England (cos there's nobody here in Ireland worth talking to as far as I know) and they said they can't recon the OEM unit. That leaves me with buying a new one or a reconditioned unit.

Will a Garrett T3 bolt straight on? there's plenty of them kicking around here because they came on Cossies so the lads in England know them well.

Or.. am I better off getting a second hand one from a breaker in Australia and reconditioning it?

Anybody got any recommendations about what to get considering I don't want to spend eleventy on one, the car is mildly modded (Apex intake, Dual N1 exhaust, Trust FMIC) so I don't need a truck turbo :D

I'd really appreciate any help guys!

ive just put an r34 turbo on my car and i cant complain, havnt had it tuned yet and my clutch just started slipping but it pulls so much harder right through to the top of each gear, might be a thought that or an r33 turbo if ur not looking to spend to much money.

Ive got a HKS 2530 (T3 flange) on mine, i need to get the computer replaced, or rechipped, because if i run over 12psi the AFM maxes out, but on 12psi in my RB20 i put out 212rwkw (280rwhp i think). it bolts straight onto the existing manifold and dump pipe, but you will have to make new oil and water lines for it. but thats not too hard, i went for braided lines, which can get expensive.

i would recomend this turbo to anyone with an RB20 who wants a perfect street car. you dont loose alot of bottom end, but get alot of mid and top end power gains.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...