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I changed my timing belt and water pump. It started up just fine, it eliminated that old sound my car was making. I let it idle for abit while I bled the air in the coolant. Then the revs started to lower from 1000 cold to the 650rpm warm level and it made this disgusting sound. What the hell? If I rev it the sound goes and it only comes when its idling.

I'm using the blue gates belt and brand new NSK bearings. Did I over tension the belt? f**king ass f**k I was so excited when it started up, it sounded so clean and smooth because my old bearings and belt were worn to the shit.

Also if the belt is too tight, can I remove the lower cover without taking the harmonic balancer off again? I really don't want to feel like I'm doing it all f**king again wow. I was able to push and pull the belt about 5 - 7mm each way on each length of belt with moderate force. I didn't tighten the thing ALL the way, it was kind of abit more than half way. I put the allen key in, relaxed it to neutral position then tensioned it up as tight as I could then released about 30% to 40% then tightened up the bolt.

Everything was torqued up to spec.

Edited by SargeRX8

Myself and a mate both have Gates Racing belts in our Ricelines and we get the same noise. We have narrowed it down to the following:

Over tensioned

Gates Racing belts are just noisy.

For the moment I CBF pulling it all apart just to check if it's over tensioned, but it is on my "to do" list

Myself and a mate both have Gates Racing belts in our Ricelines and we get the same noise. We have narrowed it down to the following:

Over tensioned

Gates Racing belts are just noisy.

For the moment I CBF pulling it all apart just to check if it's over tensioned, but it is on my "to do" list

Its a bit of both. The gates belts are known to be noisey when there newish and gradually over time as they wear in they get quieter. I dont have a gates belt but have heard of this being the case. Have a friend with a gates timing belt that makes the same noise. Still running fine.

Unless you recall it being a bit tighter then you think was right then it should be O.K

it sounds like its too tight. the belt should be able to move around 5mm in either direction or be able to be twisted 45 degrees max.

even if you could take the covers off without removing the balancer, do it anyway so you can triple check that you didnt accidentally miss a tooth.

turn the motor over two full revolutions before you put the final tension on the belt. put some tension on it while you're turning it over though, otherwise it may skip a tooth in the process.

EDIT: i had a gates belt and it wasnt noisy at all. if your belt is too tight it will cause the front cam/crank seals and bearings to wear much faster. its not something i would leave to fix later.

Edited by SECURITY

I'm not planning to leave it as it doesn't sound normal at all and the excess stress will only lead to faster wear and tear.fingers crossed I don't need to completely strip it. When we fit the belt on we done it there times to be 200% certain all three markings on the belt lined up with those on the engine and they did.i applied minor tension and turned the motor two times and noticed the markings changed their position so we took it off again and put it back on and the same thing happened. Then I said to my self that it will always do that because the crank gear is smaller than the rest. eventually after so many turns they will line up. it was more crucial the actual marks on the can gears and crank lined up and they did every time. Even the original belt was not lined up. Going to retension tomorrow. I'll reduce it until I can do the 45 degree twists with medium pressure.

Unfortunately the whole thing had to come apart bar the radiator. I could have done it yesterday without taking the radiator out but I changed the water pump so had to get as much coolant out of there.

Anyway, just let the car run for a few mins cold start and I can say there is almost absolutely no noise from the belt. No belt slapping indicating loose belt and no loud whirring. Lets see how it holds up when things get a little warm later.

And here are some tips for people who are going to do their belt:

You do NOT need to remove the radiator. Depending on your pulley puller, you should be fine. I made my own and it worked a treat without removing the rad.

Don't tension the water pump/alternator belt until you fit the clutch fan back on, if you do, good luck getting the pulley to sit flush.

Mark the belt on the outside with liquid paper for the initial setup, makes checking the markings a piece of piss.

Start applying the belt to the crank, left exhaust cam and then right intake cam; doesn't matter if you do right or left but do the bottom first!

Jack the car up if you are anything above 5ft tall, and if you are taller than 6ft, remove the f**king bonnet if you have to.

ive heard this from gates and otehr kevlar belts. Just meant to be the nature of them sometimes and often seems to disappear after a while.

I had the same thing on mine immidiately after replacement n took the top cam cover off. It was def not an over tightened belt. 3000km in it seems to have settled down.

not to say this is the case every time but gates/kevlar belts can be noisy like this. Def make sure it isnt too tight tho...

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