Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Rwd, To Gtr Awd Conversion

godsmind
 Share

Recommended Posts

godsmind Rising Star

godsmind

Posted
  • Author
Posted

1.V-spec diff and rear cradle

2. Pipings.

3. maybe ill change the console to gtr monitor....

4. Attesa computer...Some wire havent been hooked up,, like the torque meter wire and a couple of unnessesary one.

5. Popped rivot a plate and mounted the computer in the boot. Will relocate the battery here too when I got some time.

6. Fuel pump controller....

7. Cluth cylinder, holesaw the firewall and put one on. part of the deal to convert a Auto to manual

8. Modified bonnet catch to suit GTR bonnet.

9. Modified hinges to suit GTR bonnet.

post-51895-0-56278700-1308479330_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-66158500-1308479341_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-77043100-1308479361_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-34746600-1308479367_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-67281500-1308479384_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-35172000-1308479391_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-32706600-1308479396_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-32987100-1308479401_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-80607300-1308479405_thumb.jpg

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
CrimsonLey Rising Star

CrimsonLey

Posted
Posted

^^

laughing-smiley-014.giflaughing-smiley-014.gif

HAHA. I think all us GTT owners have subscribed to this thread.

Is there a way to have the GTR driveline convert into AWD as opposed to 4WD?

It's a lot of monies to do this conversion but I prefer a continuous AWD GTT as opposed to a 4WD convert.

  • 2 weeks later...
jaggmax Apprentice

jaggmax

Posted
Posted

hi, i'm concidering doing this conversion myself thanks to this thread :) ive sorced the complete driveline and dash from a 34 vspec, but am going with a standard gtr engine as i'm upgrading the turbos to the t28s anyway XD

also gonna upgrade the a power fc or something like that.

is there any differance between the vspec 34 and gtt frames?

i'm hoping for a simple drop, swap and tune... what do you think my chances are? this'll be my first conversion and my mechanic's first on an r34...

:S

cheers in advance :)

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

It is not a drop in and tune.

Especially if it's your mechanics first time.

You need to make sure the ECU's (yes, all of them) are installed correctly. G-sensors, the works. It's not just a unbolt and bolt up affair.

You also need the gearbox and rear diff etc, add that the transfer case pumps etc. Cheaper just to purchase a GTR. You then get the wider guards etc and wheelbase - which is better again etc.

I'm not even sure the GT-t and GTR chassis are the same anyway, the GTR being better logically

CrimsonLey Rising Star

CrimsonLey

Posted
Posted

+1.

From what I read the wiring/electrical aspect is the most difficult issue you'll face. I know a few dudes state-side that have done a GTR engine/tranny convert on a S14:

http://forums.nicoclub.com/95-awd-rb26-s14-kouki-t546132.html#p6228048

He said it was a BEITCH to do and expensive. If you have the time and money then I say go for it! If then, like R31Nismoid said, it's probably better to get a real GTR.

BTW, I was told that the R34 chasis are the same between the GTT and GTR. There are of course difference in certain areas relating to the frame (i.e. crossmembers, etc).

jaggmax Apprentice

jaggmax

Posted
Posted

ive scored a vspec half cut fron and rear. they are the same car wich is a bonus XD

the only thing that has been taken out of it is the engine and the brakes. i've sorced another engine and some standard gtr brakes too. plus they even had the turbos of another vspec wich to my understanding are the same as t28's?

also looking out for a power fc. gonna be easier to deal with than a standard computer.

i'm taking everything out of the vspec and throwing it in my car.the only things that will still be gtt are the things i cant unbolt and the wiring for the cabin. even the brake system will be swapped over. the guy thats doing it said he'd do it for my 25gtt engine, gearbox and driveline. so really, its gonna cost me nothing to put it in :)

i thought about getting a GTR, but its still about 10k more than i can afford :(

thats alot to pay for some badges. i'm happy with the fun aspect and 250 a. w. killer wasps XD

thanks for the feedback guys, ill let ya know how it goes :D

  • 2 months later...
godsmind Rising Star

godsmind

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the swap will require alot of custom work. both mechanical and wiring........if you are asking someone to do it all, it will cost you alot and better of sell the car and buy the GTR. I took up this project simply to set a challenge to my self and see if i am capable of doing it. Which I think i did alright.

If you can read eletrical diagram, I would suggest you try it yourself if you have decided to take it on....

the experience and satisfaction is whats most important doing such a swap...in my opinion anyway..

  • Like 1
  • 4 years later...
ZeroNZ Newbie

ZeroNZ

Posted
Posted

Hey sorry for bringing up a very old thread, but did you have to modify the trans tunnel at all for the transfer case on the transmission? I am going to be doing this conversion and I have a R33 GTS4 as a parts car (it's crashed and not repairable but good enough for parts for this) which I can cut some of the transmission tunnel out if I need to but if you managed it without it then that makes things slightly easier.

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • zillah
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By zillah · Posted

      Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Kinkstaah
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...