Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1.V-spec diff and rear cradle

2. Pipings.

3. maybe ill change the console to gtr monitor....

4. Attesa computer...Some wire havent been hooked up,, like the torque meter wire and a couple of unnessesary one.

5. Popped rivot a plate and mounted the computer in the boot. Will relocate the battery here too when I got some time.

6. Fuel pump controller....

7. Cluth cylinder, holesaw the firewall and put one on. part of the deal to convert a Auto to manual

8. Modified bonnet catch to suit GTR bonnet.

9. Modified hinges to suit GTR bonnet.

post-51895-0-56278700-1308479330_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-66158500-1308479341_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-77043100-1308479361_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-34746600-1308479367_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-67281500-1308479384_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-35172000-1308479391_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-32706600-1308479396_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-32987100-1308479401_thumb.jpg

post-51895-0-80607300-1308479405_thumb.jpg

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

^^

laughing-smiley-014.giflaughing-smiley-014.gif

HAHA. I think all us GTT owners have subscribed to this thread.

Is there a way to have the GTR driveline convert into AWD as opposed to 4WD?

It's a lot of monies to do this conversion but I prefer a continuous AWD GTT as opposed to a 4WD convert.

  • 2 weeks later...

hi, i'm concidering doing this conversion myself thanks to this thread :) ive sorced the complete driveline and dash from a 34 vspec, but am going with a standard gtr engine as i'm upgrading the turbos to the t28s anyway XD

also gonna upgrade the a power fc or something like that.

is there any differance between the vspec 34 and gtt frames?

i'm hoping for a simple drop, swap and tune... what do you think my chances are? this'll be my first conversion and my mechanic's first on an r34...

:S

cheers in advance :)

It is not a drop in and tune.

Especially if it's your mechanics first time.

You need to make sure the ECU's (yes, all of them) are installed correctly. G-sensors, the works. It's not just a unbolt and bolt up affair.

You also need the gearbox and rear diff etc, add that the transfer case pumps etc. Cheaper just to purchase a GTR. You then get the wider guards etc and wheelbase - which is better again etc.

I'm not even sure the GT-t and GTR chassis are the same anyway, the GTR being better logically

+1.

From what I read the wiring/electrical aspect is the most difficult issue you'll face. I know a few dudes state-side that have done a GTR engine/tranny convert on a S14:

http://forums.nicoclub.com/95-awd-rb26-s14-kouki-t546132.html#p6228048

He said it was a BEITCH to do and expensive. If you have the time and money then I say go for it! If then, like R31Nismoid said, it's probably better to get a real GTR.

BTW, I was told that the R34 chasis are the same between the GTT and GTR. There are of course difference in certain areas relating to the frame (i.e. crossmembers, etc).

ive scored a vspec half cut fron and rear. they are the same car wich is a bonus XD

the only thing that has been taken out of it is the engine and the brakes. i've sorced another engine and some standard gtr brakes too. plus they even had the turbos of another vspec wich to my understanding are the same as t28's?

also looking out for a power fc. gonna be easier to deal with than a standard computer.

i'm taking everything out of the vspec and throwing it in my car.the only things that will still be gtt are the things i cant unbolt and the wiring for the cabin. even the brake system will be swapped over. the guy thats doing it said he'd do it for my 25gtt engine, gearbox and driveline. so really, its gonna cost me nothing to put it in :)

i thought about getting a GTR, but its still about 10k more than i can afford :(

thats alot to pay for some badges. i'm happy with the fun aspect and 250 a. w. killer wasps XD

thanks for the feedback guys, ill let ya know how it goes :D

  • 2 months later...

the swap will require alot of custom work. both mechanical and wiring........if you are asking someone to do it all, it will cost you alot and better of sell the car and buy the GTR. I took up this project simply to set a challenge to my self and see if i am capable of doing it. Which I think i did alright.

If you can read eletrical diagram, I would suggest you try it yourself if you have decided to take it on....

the experience and satisfaction is whats most important doing such a swap...in my opinion anyway..

  • Like 1
  • 4 years later...

Hey sorry for bringing up a very old thread, but did you have to modify the trans tunnel at all for the transfer case on the transmission? I am going to be doing this conversion and I have a R33 GTS4 as a parts car (it's crashed and not repairable but good enough for parts for this) which I can cut some of the transmission tunnel out if I need to but if you managed it without it then that makes things slightly easier.

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...