Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bit of an interesting one here.

Car starts up first time every time on a freezing cold morning. But if you drive the car and turn the car off for a short period of time it just wont start again. this isnt really an issue most of the time but if you duck into the shops for a minute, you have to wait about 10-15 mins before the car will start up again. Car has only started doing this since all the parts were put on and tuned. plugs have been gapped down to .8 from 1.1, brand new battery (550CCA) .

It cranks and cranks but just doesnt fire. any one have any ideas?

car always started fine with nistune and usual bolt ons. now has Z32, bigger injectors, pump. All of which were brough brand new

anyone care to hazard a guess at what it might be

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367767-car-wont-start-when-warm/
Share on other sites

was advised to gap down to 1.1. this didnt make a difference at all.

Im unsure if the ecu was tuned for hot/warm starts. It does it that randomly thats its hard to say/

car only makes 270rwkw. so its not that.

Hasnt done it since i popped this thread up. even with a few short trips to the shops today. which was nice

Hasnt done it since i popped this thread up. even with a few short trips to the shops today. which was nice

Intermittent problem starting when car is warm - exact same problem happened to me in my 300zx (z32 TT).

Does yours stink like fuel when it's trying to start and occasionally run like s--t? Mine did.

Problem turned out to be the coolant temp sensor - actually, the sensor itself was fine, the wiring just near the sensor had corroded.

The coolant temp sensor was intermittently failing.

When the car was cold it was fine, because the ecu thought it was cold. WHen the car was actually warm, it would basicaly attempt cold start up and dump heaps of fuel in.

Because the sensor would work intermittently, sometimes it was fine and sometimes not. At first, it would struggle to start, but then be ok. It deteriorated until it became a problem when running.

Cut out the corroded wire, reattached to the sensor, and it was all fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...