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There has been a couple of discussions about this topic but in the end I think it was decided that it was personal preference. Some people said that they heard that the HKS metal was softer or some thing but no one has had any problems with any gears purchased by any of the tuning houses. Personally I have a Trust Cam gear and haven't had a problem with that at all.

Also, you don't want to get the IN gear for your car as you will lose the NVCS which is not something you want. Most R33 GTSt drivers only get the EX wheel.

Cheers!

13_devil I had heard the same (HKS "wears out") so just to make sure I bought a Trust Ex Cam Gear from Nengun.com for about 13,000yen (au ~$155) and recieved it 4 days later.

The HKS was priced at about 12,000yen (~ au$145). You can choose from about 4 brands for a difference of around $20 from cheapest to most expensive so its pretty much personal preference.

Fitting/tuning will cost you almost as much as purchasing the cam gear :)

i dont want to start a new thread about this, but are the results worthwhile?

Say if i get one from nengun for 150 odd then spend whatever getting it fitted and tuned, did people do before and after dyno runs?

What about driving it on the road, could you feel a difference? im just trying to work out if its worth spending the 300 odd getting it done.

i dont want to start a new thread about this, but are the results worthwhile?

Say if i get one from nengun for 150 odd then spend whatever getting it fitted and tuned, did people do before and after dyno runs?

What about driving it on the road, could you feel a difference? im just trying to work out if its worth spending the 300 odd getting it done.

I haven't done it myself yet (Cam Gear is sitting at home still) but from everything I have read and workshops that I have spoken to a Cam Gear will give you 10-15rwkw for only $300.

A Pod filter costs ~$200 and might be lucky to give you 3-5rwkw

A full exhaust costs ~$1500-2000 and might give you 15-20rwkw

A FMIC costs ~$1500 and might give you 15-20rwkw

I'd personally say it would be 1 of the cheapest mods available. I'll do a before/after dyno printout when I get mine installed.

I found it worth while, and I just wacked it in and set it a 3 degrees (no tuning).

For me there was a noticeable increase in mid range power. I'd say around the 10rwkw mark (not MASSIVE but noticable).

For the cost I was very happy, but like Jimbo has said, there are a few people that found 0 degrees was the best :D

Think of it this way, buy the cam gear and wack it in yourself if you can, if there's no improvement, then put it up for sale here on SAU for what you bought it for - it'll get snapped up pretty quick :)

J

If knew how to work out all that 'timing' stuff i'd do it myself and save the $160 on installation/tuning.

What happens if you put it on 2 instead of say 3? Will it be better than stock but not as good as what it would be if it was on 3 or is it only better on 1 setting and worse on all the rest ?

Guest Robo's

MJ

Simutino's HRZ 11 255/40/17

Benm

Yes, 2 degrees retard would be better than the factory setting, -3 or -4 is ideal but any retarded degrees would be better than the factory setting of zero. I initially put my cam degree wheel in positive as the cam gear didnt have any markings on it. It was so slow. We then had too even line up the negative 4 degrees with the eye, but we got it pretty spot on

i have them in my line but they havent been tuned how do you tune them

For a R32 GTR you should have 2 on (inlet and exh).

A good start for a RB26 is 4 degrees retard on the exhaust, and 1 degree advanced on the inlet. It may not be the best, but it's a good start and should be better than stock.

J

not necessarily. You could get Tomei Poncams which are obviously aftermarket but can be installed and still retain your NVCS and use your stock IN gear. But on the whole, yes, you wouldn't bother with the IN side unless you're willing to loose NVCS and put in bigger aftermarket camshafts.

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