Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I might have to remove the water line running to the turbo (the one that ends at the firewall (behind the block)

Is there any chance to get there with the engine in the car?

How is the line attached there, the usual banjo?

Thanks ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368220-r33-gtst-rear-water-line-removal/
Share on other sites

I found it easiest to remove the Rubber heater hoses that run behind the block. Otherwise it was near impossible. I have a greddy copy plenum, not sure if that makes it harder or not. Is a banjo bolt at the turbo and a barbed fitting with a clamp on at the plenum

Hello,

Thanks for that ..

Since you write 'Plenum' I thought the water feed ends between the block and the firewall?

Hmmmm ... maybe I have to double check where this water line comes from ..

Cheers :)

Edited by Torques

It is a pain in the arse. Normally I can access ANYTHING. This was IMPOSSIBLE. I repeat IMPOSSIBLE for me to even come close to. I fit pliers over the clip which holds it but no way I could squeeze and pull it out. Maybe loosen the engine mounts, put a trolley jack and jack the car from the back of the gear box leaning the engine forward? That will give you room and you could maybe get away without removing the tailshaft and changing box oil.

:blink:

You are starting to scare me ;)

I had a look and was thinking you could somehow grab the clip with long pliers and then pull the metal hose.

But you write you tried ..

How about removing the whole hose with the angled part that comes from the other side (plenum)

Is this working?

(I could not really see how this is held together and connected because it was so densely packed there)

It is a pain in the arse. Normally I can access ANYTHING. This was IMPOSSIBLE. I repeat IMPOSSIBLE for me to even come close to. I fit pliers over the clip which holds it but no way I could squeeze and pull it out. Maybe loosen the engine mounts, put a trolley jack and jack the car from the back of the gear box leaning the engine forward? That will give you room and you could maybe get away without removing the tailshaft and changing box oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...