Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I might have to remove the water line running to the turbo (the one that ends at the firewall (behind the block)

Is there any chance to get there with the engine in the car?

How is the line attached there, the usual banjo?

Thanks ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368220-r33-gtst-rear-water-line-removal/
Share on other sites

I found it easiest to remove the Rubber heater hoses that run behind the block. Otherwise it was near impossible. I have a greddy copy plenum, not sure if that makes it harder or not. Is a banjo bolt at the turbo and a barbed fitting with a clamp on at the plenum

Hello,

Thanks for that ..

Since you write 'Plenum' I thought the water feed ends between the block and the firewall?

Hmmmm ... maybe I have to double check where this water line comes from ..

Cheers :)

Edited by Torques

It is a pain in the arse. Normally I can access ANYTHING. This was IMPOSSIBLE. I repeat IMPOSSIBLE for me to even come close to. I fit pliers over the clip which holds it but no way I could squeeze and pull it out. Maybe loosen the engine mounts, put a trolley jack and jack the car from the back of the gear box leaning the engine forward? That will give you room and you could maybe get away without removing the tailshaft and changing box oil.

:blink:

You are starting to scare me ;)

I had a look and was thinking you could somehow grab the clip with long pliers and then pull the metal hose.

But you write you tried ..

How about removing the whole hose with the angled part that comes from the other side (plenum)

Is this working?

(I could not really see how this is held together and connected because it was so densely packed there)

It is a pain in the arse. Normally I can access ANYTHING. This was IMPOSSIBLE. I repeat IMPOSSIBLE for me to even come close to. I fit pliers over the clip which holds it but no way I could squeeze and pull it out. Maybe loosen the engine mounts, put a trolley jack and jack the car from the back of the gear box leaning the engine forward? That will give you room and you could maybe get away without removing the tailshaft and changing box oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...