Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in the process of installing my GTX3071, im running a turbosmart 45mm gate and was looking to upgrade the blitz dual solenoids with a MAC valve to help hold boost.

Will the blitz unit run it ok? I have read it may need a diode across the wires to stop back emf spiking. Anyone upgraded a boost controller in this way?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368706-mac-valve/
Share on other sites

Need more info on said mac valve.

You will probably find there wont be many people with hands on experience, but with enough detail those of us with good electronics knowledge may be able to somewhat answer/provide insight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368706-mac-valve/#findComment-5879042
Share on other sites

It is just a no/nc air switch, to keep pressure on the spring side of the wastgate until boost, when the solenoid is energised and the pressure swaps ends to open the wastegate. There were a few people running them with link ecu's when I did a search but I need to know if the Blitz DS will work. As its only one coil instead of two it should I guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368706-mac-valve/#findComment-5879062
Share on other sites

You are talking about a very small component to create back EMF, however I don't see the harm in using a diode either. Your concern should be load on the EBC should you be planning to run it on the same circuit. Normally running a relay to control it would alleviate any concern. Ive used standard relays to fix alarms that detect EMF for arming when using a turbo timer.

Are you concerned about WG creep?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368706-mac-valve/#findComment-5879228
Share on other sites

You are talking about a very small component to create back EMF, however I don't see the harm in using a diode either. Your concern should be load on the EBC should you be planning to run it on the same circuit. Normally running a relay to control it would alleviate any concern. Ive used standard relays to fix alarms that detect EMF for arming when using a turbo timer.

Are you concerned about WG creep?

I beleive he was talk about back EMF off the solenoid creating voltage spikes on the driver. They will have most likely account for a fair amount of flyback votlage - I wouldn't be too concerned. Like I said just compare the impeadances of both solenoids.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368706-mac-valve/#findComment-5879286
Share on other sites

You are talking about a very small component to create back EMF, however I don't see the harm in using a diode either. Your concern should be load on the EBC should you be planning to run it on the same circuit. Normally running a relay to control it would alleviate any concern. Ive used standard relays to fix alarms that detect EMF for arming when using a turbo timer.

Are you concerned about WG creep?

I hope to run fairly high boost occasionally, not sure how the Turbosmart will cope with 25-30 psi as the heaviest springs are 1 bar. With the MAC valve I will definitely have no issues. Don't people usually run these for high boost? Why are the wastegates fitted with two ports otherwise?

I don't think the Blitz will have a fit as it already has to deal with its normal twin solenoids and the spiking they cause. I had a look inside the solenoid box a while back but I cant remember if the coils had diodes across them, perhaps I should start there.

Thanks guys. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368706-mac-valve/#findComment-5879578
Share on other sites

I was thinking if the Blitz can't control it very well, perhaps the Emanage can? I'm pretty sure you can set up any pwm output you like and map it off the boost sensor right?

Here are some pics of the install so far.

post-63525-0-02099100-1308840066_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-55417200-1308840083_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368706-mac-valve/#findComment-5880345
Share on other sites

I have a small and large mac valve which i can measure for you if you are interested, were you thinking of running a small one or a large port one?

This is the one I have, just waiting on a 12v coil for it. My tuner has said to just try the standard Blitz solenoids first and see what the boost control is like.

post-63525-0-95814200-1308880001_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368706-mac-valve/#findComment-5880740
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...