Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was changing the dump pipr on my 33 gtst( stock)

and forgot to strap in the o2 sensor plug and it melted through on the turbo

car now wont start, iv tried new plugs, no o2 sensor.

Any help would be good cheers

can the car start and idle with no o2 sensor?( no driving though dw)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368945-02-sensor-plug-burnt-car-wont-start/
Share on other sites

I was changing the dump pipr on my 33 gtst( stock)

and forgot to strap in the o2 sensor plug and it melted through on the turbo

car now wont start, iv tried new plugs, no o2 sensor.

Any help would be good cheers

can the car start and idle with no o2 sensor?( no driving though dw)

yes, yes it can. will just run a bit richer at light load (instead of the AFRs being around 15:1 it will be about 12:1). at heavier throttle % then it won't be any different as the ecu ignores it anyway

Just rewire it mate. Easy as. P.s I disconnected the O2 wire from my stock computer and my pfc and the car stalled both times. What does that tell you?

it tells me you disconnected something the ecu actually needs, like the cas. as nismoid said the o2 sensor is not needed for the car to run and drive. its a fuel saving device and it only used when cruising along at a constant throttle

Get the wiring diagram and start looking for where the common power feeds are to see what you've shorted out. It is pretty clear that when the wiring melted on the exhaust that a big bad electrical failure happened. It doesn't take a rocket surgeon to work that out.

it tells me you disconnected something the ecu actually needs, like the cas. as nismoid said the o2 sensor is not needed for the car to run and drive. its a fuel saving device and it only used when cruising along at a constant throttle

Haha probably aye. Actually now that I think about it, it was the wrong wire. Dur... I remember that I unplugged the wrong wire and it didn't run and then realized and got the right wire (the clear one). My bad :whistling:

Hey guys in a bit of a pickle!

Was driving the other day and car just cut out on me and wouldnt start. I then looked under the hood and saw that i melted my o2 senssor wires onto the turbo manifold and that appeared to be the problem until i disconected it and tried starting with no o2 seonsor and got nothing. Next i took off the fuel lines into the engine and turned ignition on and found no petrol pumping or any sort of prime noise! So i took the fuel pump out and stuck it directly into the engine and ran it manually and the car started and reved up. So i assumed i had stuffed one of my relays to the fuel pump. To my understanding it is either both or one of the one behind the ecu in pass kick panel and in boot to the right of fuel pump fuse. They appeared to work fine after testing. Next i tried looking at the pump control unit and found no burns on the board but am not sure if there would be from 12 v? So not sure if thats working or not. Also i ear there is a ballist resistor connectin to the fuel pump in the boot which i have not yet looked at but am not sure what its duty is and if it can actually short circuit?

Need help!

Oh and also tried a mates ecu and nothing. So inconclusion there is no power on the wires on top of the fuel lid

had this exact same thing happen before... O2 sensor wirings have 12V power and signal wires/ground going to ecu... if you short them together it WILL fry the ecu.

lucky for me i fried an injector driver for cyln 5 on the circuit board so it still ran on 5 cylns... i was able to un solder the fried driver and replace it.

Sounds like it depends what sort of shorting happens as to whether it frys the whole board or just a certain thing. It could also be in safe mode. But i noticed power to the fuel pump after i put a direct negative to the relay in the boot at the pump started to prime.. I then took it off and it still primed for another second or so and since that direct negative its been working without my direct negative but using the ecu to turn it on again! No idea why?

The ECU has a -ve trigger for the fuel pump. On shorting the O2 you must have fried a common point somewhere.

Try using a multimeter and testing the fuel pump trigger on the ecu (-ve output), it will stay on for a few seconds if the motor doesn't kick over.

Work from there!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...