Autech 260Rs Coolest Car Made?

[lilcrash]

That's actually the reason I didn't buy the 260 lol. $10k for brakes vs $10k to spend on upgrades

[Sunkist]

lol fair point!

[lilcrash]

It might just be me but I think spending $10k on power mods to the rb25 will make it have a little bit more power then an rb26.

[Sunkist]

It might just be me but I think spending $10k on power mods to the rb25 will make it have a little bit more power then an rb26.

i sense sarcasm lol.

a little more? lol

[ironpaw]

I've raced an autech and it was slower then my rs4s. Maybe just a bad day for the autech but my turbo only held 10psi for 1000rpm before fading down to the poo level of 4-5psi. I think that there may be easier power making mods with the 26 but stock 25 and 26 appear pretty identical.

And hell yes rbd2 I want to see a pic

Is this the same race where you beat a VE SS Sportswagon and your boss's F6?

jks!

[Big Fella]

you can easily extract more power out of the rb26 for less $$$$ basic exhaust, more boost and retune should net you 200-220awkw

same mods on a rb25 will only get you 170-180awkw.this of course doesn't take into account the difference in purchase price(which was only $5g when i bought my rs4

i know from personal experience thru the hills, the autech walks away from my stagea and we have the same basic mods, and my car isn't crazy slow either.

If you beat an autech only running 4-5psi then i suspect he wasn't really racing.

[lilcrash]

Ironpaw -i understand your joking but go find yourself a ve redline ute and have a race, from 80-150/160 I sat beside him then he crept away. At 180 speed cut his tail lights were only a few meters in front of my headlights. That's the closest race I've had so far. But that said. I miss my stock turbo :'(. Stupid hypergear turbo is driving me nuts.

Big fella - I got mine 4years ago. At the yard an auto was 15990, manual 21990 and 260rs 29990. The only thing I regret is having un replaceable brake pads.

Edited June 27, 2011 by lilcrash

[horrace]

If you have a stock brake S1 they are easy enough to get? Is that what your saying?

[lilcrash]

Ive got a series 2. But back to the original topic. Autech = nice car but Stagea in general = awesomeness.

[SMOKEYV35]

whats wrong with your hypergear?

[lilcrash]

Nothing wrong with it. Just takes some getting used to. I've been driving a 2002 camry and a 2001 turbo beetle for 4 weeks so yer its different.

[SMOKEYV35]

you said a few posts ago it was driving you nuts and that you miss your stock turbo? no biggie, jsut asking as i would consider one...

[lilcrash]

It drives fine, it's getting a nice consistent 7psi until high in the revs then in a matter of 300/400 rpm hits boost cut 14psi so I can't go above 5000rpm when the cams hit and my car should be going its best basically

Edited June 27, 2011 by lilcrash

[Sunkist]

It drives fine, it's getting a nice consistent 7psi until high in the revs then in a matter of 300/400 rpm hits boost cut 14psi so I can't go above 5000rpm when the cams hit and my car should be going its best basically

so its boost creeping?

why dont you get a bigger puck welded on and largen the internal wastegate.. mines currently doing it at 22psi.. hypergear said they'd do it for $120 i think.. should definitely stop your creeping issue

[lilcrash]

It doesn't do it all the time, it's like the wastegate gets stuck open then suddenly jams closed. If you move the wategate by hand it does get stuck but where the sticky spot is it shouldn't open that far.

[Sunkist]

then your actuator reach is to long.

or you dont have pre load so its already a little opened, so when it completely opens, perhaps it opens to much...thats alot of opens..

i'de be speaking to hypergear as it obviously should be happening.

[lilcrash]

He said there is no way it would reach that far. It's got about 6mm of preload

[Sunkist]

He said there is no way it would reach that far. It's got about 6mm of preload

get an air compressor connected to the boost signal like to the actuator. and se how many degrees it opens.

to a shop its always a case of "nah will never do that" as they then dont have to fix theyre fault.

if your having issues like that its definitely not safe. hence the reason im on eFlex

[hypergear]

The turbo was originally fitted with a high pressure actuator made to hold 18psi. Been told its too strong so I sent him a low pressure actuator. I have no idea how that was fitted as well as the rest of the bits. The actuator only pushes about 60 degrees out of a 33mm disc covering a 30mm gate which's not enough for it to hit the backing housing and if it does jam open then we should see very low boost.

When I sent the low pressure actuator I don't have the turbo on front of me and I don't how long the rod needs to be but longer is always better then shorter, so if its too long then just cut and thread it down to size, and 6mms of preload is way too much, should be 3mm. I don’t get how it can run 14psi then goes back to 7psi. I have a feeling some of the vacuum plumbing is a bit strange or it is too much actuator preload. I'm guiding a novice DIYer and its pretty hard work.

The car's needs injectors and a tunned for 18psi. Its not going to make much more power with stock tune and factory boost. And have to say its doing pretty good keeping up with a RB26dett stegea.

[lilcrash]

I'm in no way a novice DIYer. Most of my job is custom fabrication.

The high pressure actuator gives in stable boost as the wastegate is held open.

There is no vacuum out put on the turbo outlet so I have used the nipple on the next piece of pipe to the intercooler.

Next point. It's got 6mm of preload because that's all the thread that's on there, at 3mm preload it barely had any boost.

I only wish to run 10psi until I get the other parts.

JUST SO EVERYONE KNOWS. THE ATR43SS-1 THAT I GOT FROM HYPERGEAR ISNT CAPABLE OF LESS THEN 16/17 PSI. SO BEWARE.

Edited June 28, 2011 by lilcrash