Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So finished rebuilding the engine , got Arias custom made pistons in it for neo engine ! when it was freshly finished it showed 120, 120, 130, 125, 130, 120 psi in all six cilinders . drove about 700km and now in all 6 cilinders is 120psi, same in all!! i have putted tomei poncams as well ! gasket is standard size standard has 9:1 as far as i know what number i have now? is it too low?

my friend owns RB26 he did same (forged it) and his car shows 145psi in all six?

so am i ok or in trouble? :))))

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369488-rb25-det-neo-just-forged-it/
Share on other sites

Normally bigger cams will drop your compression when you do a test, in comparison to standard. But not that much, especially with poncams. Did you build it yourself or an engine builder do it for you?

You did have the throttle fully open when you did the test?

my healthy neo with pon cams reads 100 psi all round lol

This is why I was persistently asking you about this.

110psi across all six here, with a new engine with poncams which I thought was pretty low but it runs great.

Using the same tester on an a standard RB26 which had 165-170psi across all cylinders then a built RB26 with big cams; 160-165psi :mellow:

Edited by aleks

Normally bigger cams will drop your compression when you do a test, in comparison to standard. But not that much, especially with poncams. Did you build it yourself or an engine builder do it for you?

You did have the throttle fully open when you did the test?

didn't touch the throttle and didn't cut the fuel :) lol i'll try to do that way :)

Glad that here is people running that low CR with no problems:)

thx

you sure?? cause mine is as high as 170 and 175,

100psi is low, that must be pretty unresponsive on low revs??

I really doubt its compression is actually almost half of yours, if it did it would drive like absolute shit, either completely wrong pistons or blown rings. The reality is it is probably one motor was cold/hot, different tester, different rpm, different cams etc.

My old rb20 measured 90-95 on all 6, made 155kw on 11psi stock turbo and blew no smoke, all that matters is it is close.

Edited by Rolls

thats just it.. too many variations to be able to compare one to another.. the main thing is all cyns are the same, and comp testers fall into the same bucket as dynos.. just a tool.

well i wouldnt be happy them just all being the same, id want to know its perfect after spending all that money rebuilding an engine,

a compression guage shouldnt be more than 5% different to the next , thats like saying a tyre guage says its 40psi but another is saying 30psi?

must be quite a big gap with forged pistons when there cold and the cam must be quite long duration to justify a 70psi drop after a rebuild, but just my opinion,

but if your happy with it then great..

thats like saying a tyre guage says its 40psi but another is saying 30psi?

actually happens a lot more than you'd think and more than 10psi a lot of the time, especially at servo gauges

also dont forget, static compression is different to dynamic compression, way too many variables to go comparing readings. as said aslong as they're all within 5-10psi and its not using more oil than fuel its fine.

Edited by JonnoHR31

well i wouldnt be happy them just all being the same, id want to know its perfect after spending all that money rebuilding an engine,

a compression guage shouldnt be more than 5% different to the next , thats like saying a tyre guage says its 40psi but another is saying 30psi?

It isn't just the compression gauge though, it is cam timing, actual compression ratio due to pistons, if they are forged, if they rings aren't yet bedded in, if you have a big cam, all of these will change the compression.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...