Jump to content
SAU Community

Can Anyone Identify This Fuel Pump?

SargeRX8

By SargeRX8,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

My fuel pump died and I need a new one. He gave me this which was pulled out of his turbo rotary. I don't know what it is but I do know rotors are very thirsty. Does anyone know what this is and is it suitable for a R33 gtst running 13psi with nismo 740cc injectors?

The only markings are IF0034 20226.

My brother thinks its probably a bosch 910 but I have no idea.

Any ideas?

Also if someone is selling their fuel pump, a bosch 040 or a r33 gtr fuel pump pm me :)

Also it seems no one has read my other thread but if you read this, and decide to reply, gimme your input. My fuel pump is not priming and when I put the ignition on all I can hear is the pump kicking in the tank, like a dub kind of sound. No buzzing etc. It jumps around. Does it sound seized? My car pings to 54 as soon as it starts. The tuner said this is a tell tale sign of no fuel, no pressure and the fuel pump shitting it self especially the lack of priming sound from a 040.

post-68383-0-71312600-1309414154_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369530-can-anyone-identify-this-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites
JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

unless the part numbers been altered/covered up thats not a 910. no idea what it is though sorry

knock readings on startup are almost certainly not genuine knock, usually something rattling during startup due to the motor moving around a bit.

best thing to do with your current pump is to pull it out and check for blockages/loose wiring etc before flow testing it in a bucket or similar.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I just placed an order on a brand new 040 to replace my old one. Not going to bother trying to fix the old one. It's from my wreck and the fuel tank was open for a while so maybe now it's decided to fail. Hopefully my new pump comes tomorrow and all my problems go away. Got about quarter tank of fuel so hopefully I don't get too wet lol.

I'm really getting over second hand parts. Sure you save money at the get go but you end up spending again much sooner... Maybe I'll setup a surge tank if my brother parts with his 044.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

With the 040's there is a metal filter on the bottom they normally "can't suck in fuel" when that blocks and generates a very loud high pitch buzzz sound. the pump would work as normal If you clean the filter and fuel tank . Or get rid of the filter.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Is it mounted with a hose clamp? Back the hose clamp off to see if it strs pumping. I had one that shounded fine but didnt pump a drop due to the hose clamp.

Try the pump out of its cradle too see if it works.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...