Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone with M35 has bought any reinforcement braces (not sway bars)? if yes, do they actually improve handling or at the least work as it's supposed to?

something like this: http://www.oxmotorsports.co.jp/7.html?

damn expensive pinch.gif

Iain has em on his car....pretty sure he was happy with the result....although we did do the BC + Sway bars at the same time!

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i have them

and yes they help. well, i assume so.

i did them, swaybars and coilovers all at once.

anyway the chassis creaks less now when i go in and out of my driveway at an angle...........

is that actually chassis flex?

i assumed it was just the movement of the swaybar. and the creak was nil lube in there.

are they actually the same as the whiteline sway bars in dale's group buy? i'd like to get the front and rear strut bars, but are the others sway bars or additional braces?

completely different!

the bracing stops chassis flex and adds rigidity. the sway bars prevent body roll.

get both, failig that, just get the swaybars

of course, its metal!

jack up one corner and open a door

my car creaks when i park on uneven surface and climb into the rear seats from 1 side

i thought it was swaybars that ran out of grease or just worn bushings

of course, its metal!

jack up one corner and open a door

speaking about creaks, my car creaks a lot on turns and even when rolling slowly on a slightly uneven surface...is it normal or something that i need to look at?

old and dry bushes is probably all it is. unless your car is doing something weird, i wouldnt worry too much about it.

mines done it since i got it. i thought changing the suspension and swaybars would fix it. but the creaks are coming from elsewhere. maybe ill throw some lithium grease around one day

guys, more questions

1. i saw a DIY 1 day on changing the shifting direction for the manual but can't find it anymore, any links and photos on how to do it?

2. looking to change brakes, i know there are a couple (or more) threads for brake upgrade, but just want to get a quick and straight answer: does R34 GTT brakes (f&r) fit M35 and what do i need other than the caliper and corresponding rotors and pads?

3. anyone know how to raise up the HID headlight beam? i need to raise up the left one as it's not as high as the right onepinch.gif

4. continuing on the headlights, anyone know what bulbs we're using for the HID and also for the other light (the yellow one)? thinking of getting a super yellow light and a higher K HIDwhistling.gif

thanks guys thumbsup.gif

guys, more questions

1. i saw a DIY 1 day on changing the shifting direction for the manual but can't find it anymore, any links and photos on how to do it?

2. looking to change brakes, i know there are a couple (or more) threads for brake upgrade, but just want to get a quick and straight answer: does R34 GTT brakes (f&r) fit M35 and what do i need other than the caliper and corresponding rotors and pads?

3. anyone know how to raise up the HID headlight beam? i need to raise up the left one as it's not as high as the right onepinch.gif

4. continuing on the headlights, anyone know what bulbs we're using for the HID and also for the other light (the yellow one)? thinking of getting a super yellow light and a higher K HIDwhistling.gif

thanks guys thumbsup.gif

1; http://www.skylinesa...5+shift+reverse

2; Fronts will go straight on; rears as far as I'm aware no one has tried. V35/Z33 brembo rears will.

3; There will be a manual trim adjustment; I would suggest removing the bumper skin and removing the headlight itself; easier than trying to muck around in the engine bay. With a little practice you can remove the bumper skin in less than 10 minutes.

Also check that the adjustment servos are both working; this could be the root cause.

4; 4200k D2R's are factory , so you could step up to a 6000k without going too silly. I believe iamhe77 is using 90/110w halogen globes in the high beam slots with no added relays; with no issues.

Edited by Daleo

1; http://www.skylinesa...5+shift+reverse

2; Fronts will go straight on; rears as far as I'm aware no one has tried. V35/Z33 brembo rears will.

3; There will be a manual trim adjustment; I would suggest removing the bumper skin and removing the headlight itself; easier than trying to muck around in the engine bay. With a little practice you can remove the bumper skin in less than 10 minutes.

Also check that the adjustment servos are both working; this could be the root cause.

4; 4200k D2R's are factory , so you could step up to a 6000k without going too silly. I believe iamhe77 is using 90/110w halogen globes in the high beam slots with no added relays; with no issues.

I'm all over it Aaron :thumbsup:

and D2's for the xenon. lol replaced my $50 cheapys after two years. cant beleive they've lasted.

Edited by Daleo

i accept my fail lol.

whats wrong with 8000k? lol yeh you cant see very far but meh i dont need to see 1 km ahead of me.

Too blue; light doesn't seem to throw very far and glare reflects back at you off every road sign in the known universe.

That and you look like a stupid teenager with an Excel and some Ebay HID's yo!:yucky:

Edited by Daleo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...