Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basic setup of the car Rb25Det Deatchwerks 740cc Injectors Rb20 ECU running nistune and a VCT controller.

Installed the injectors, all looks good nothing leaking. Run the Injector change function on nistune and the Injector multiplier is nearly halfed. Stupid thing starts to barly idle at a very lean 19AFR. Im adding nearly an extra 60% to the Multiplier to get it to idle at 14.9AFR the idle is just shit sounds liek a wrx on 3 cylinders.

Up the multiplier some more and AFR head towards 12.5 and the idle is alot nicer.

Now if the idle is set to what it should be the rest of the map becomes extremely rich, so rich in fact that the car splutters and stops moving.

So now i have 0'ed out the fuel map in the cruise section and cruising along adjust the multiplier to sround what it was when the injector change function was run.

Car seams to drive alot better comming on to boost it is still very rich but drivable(In the 11-12AFR range), no spluttering at all felt more like before the injector change.

Now to get it to idle thoses fuel cells are now adjusted to theroetical 10AFR

The way the nissan ecu's work theoretical AFR sound be pretty close to actual AFR expecially in the light cruize/idle range.

Any ideas? Deatchwerks sell them as drop in replacements from what i can see of the injector report lag tims are correct.

Is thi normal for larger injectors? Any one else with Deatchwerks experiance?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369944-tuning-with-bigger-injectors/
Share on other sites

Ahh - the difference between theory and practise.

1. Your using quite a large injector how much power are you after?

2. Those injectors are quite poor in terms of spray pattern and low end drivability.

3. The test benches that injector manufactures use don't always match the how the factory ecu's drive injectors so the provided latencies aren't always that good of a guide.

The problem you are experiencing is non-linearity of the injector from driving a too smaller pulse width. You can correct it by increasing your latency time or to increase your ttp min. I would put in your calculated k value and try increasing your latency first, failing that increase your ttp min.

you have to adjust the latency corrections, if the 740s are anything like the 1000s i got from Deatchwerks the latency is massively different to stock. you should have got a flow report with the injectors with latency figures on it

Here is the report from Deatchwerks

post-28286-0-81601500-1309776814_thumb.jpg

Report says 756cc avg flow static and 645cc avg flow dynamic. Which figure do i use in my calculations?

And yes I can see 1.3ms Latency @ 14V I will give this a go tomorrow

The lean at idle symptoms you describe in your first post is typical of having the latency too low, whereas at WOT latency setting is not important. So - fixing the latency setting should help a lot!

Here is the report from Deatchwerks

post-28286-0-81601500-1309776814_thumb.jpg

Report says 756cc avg flow static and 645cc avg flow dynamic. Which figure do i use in my calculations?

And yes I can see 1.3ms Latency @ 14V I will give this a go tomorrow

use 756. cant remember exactly how nistune works the latency but for reference the standard 25 injectors are .63ms

Finally got around to trying this again. Set injector latency to 1300 resized injectors to 756 saved changes and started the car.

Car started and idled better than ever before(Even before the injector change)

Didn't have time to let it fully warm up and fine tune the multiplier but so far very happy with the hiflow injectors.

I was always told the hiflowed rb25 injectors were bad at cold start. These being Suburu hiflowed injectors seam absolutly fine.

Oh and to answer the previous question. Why did I buy such large injectors.

My power goal is 400hp for now but I do plan on building a 3L and run E85 so only buying injectors the one time

  • 1 month later...

Still having issues with these injectors haven't driven my car since installing them.

Here is an email I got from Deatschwerks regarding the problem.

Jason,

If the OE latency is displayed as 530us for the OE RB25 ECU, then think using 1300us for our injectors would be way off. The RB25 uses a OE side feed injector with almost the same coil properties as our 740’s. I would suggest trying something in the 700 rang and see if that helps then adjust from there. Our injector would not have anywhere close to more than twice the latency time as the OE injector

Thanks

-Mike

Now as you can see from the flow report I posted @14v(My car runs 13.9-14v at idle) the latency is 1.3MS or 1300us for Nistuns sake.

From what Mike at Deatschwerks is saying this is incorrect??? Does this mean the latency data provided is for both opening and closing time?

Ho can I accurately measure latency time my self?

Your spending too much time on latency and concentrating on theory (very often the case text book tuning is useless in real world applications), best bet is to concentrate on your idle and cruise with latency within 10% of the factory setting as they are high flowed. Use your K value.

Once cruise and idle is set to a reasonable setting then retune the rest of the map,it is not uncommon to rewrite the whole map so it resembles nothing like your old one.

Maniplutaion of the MAF curve is generally a given too. The maps Tao has posted the last few pages of his highflow thread have around 1.5 to 2hours spent on the MAF curve alone... so much detail in there athat changing turbos generally only requires a run or 2 on the dyno to touch up each time.

So what problems is it now having.

Still the same issue idle is only perfect when running really rich.

Status, that is some really good advise. I will get the latency and K value as good as I can get it then just start re tuning the rest of the map.

When you talk about tuning the MAF curve as you referring to adjusting the MAF table so real world AFR's resemble the theoretical AFR on the fuel map?

I guess that kinda like a 2D VE map isn't it?

If only the dyno my mate and me are building was complete would make this a lot easier.

One more question.

What is the stock latency figure for the rb25?

I have a nistuned rb20 ecu running my car and the latency in there is different to the latency of the stock rb25 ecu.

Maybe this value was forgotten when I had the base image built by Nistune? This could be the reason my car has always run really rich and had a bad idle?

Any way cheers for all the help again guys.

Still the same issue idle is only perfect when running really rich.

Status, that is some really good advise. I will get the latency and K value as good as I can get it then just start re tuning the rest of the map.

When you talk about tuning the MAF curve as you referring to adjusting the MAF table so real world AFR's resemble the theoretical AFR on the fuel map?

I guess that kinda like a 2D VE map isn't it?

If only the dyno my mate and me are building was complete would make this a lot easier.

One more question.

What is the stock latency figure for the rb25?

I have a nistuned rb20 ecu running my car and the latency in there is different to the latency of the stock rb25 ecu.

Maybe this value was forgotten when I had the base image built by Nistune? This could be the reason my car has always run really rich and had a bad idle?

Any way cheers for all the help again guys.

any conversion ecu required a full retune to get it working sweet, if you look in your rom pack under type 6 he rb25 bin files are all there..

Yes your reasoning on the maf map is correct, ive been spending more and more time in this map now that nistune changed the scale manipulation for me (on other ecus like pfc its where i spend most time), it used to be a tedious job as the values would only scale up and down in 10's... they have since changed it for me so it scales in 100's and it has been absolute bliss :P

Cant fault the Nistune guys as they are quick to react and help with any suggestions or upgrades.

Still the same issue idle is only perfect when running really rich.

Status, that is some really good advise. I will get the latency and K value as good as I can get it then just start re tuning the rest of the map.

When you talk about tuning the MAF curve as you referring to adjusting the MAF table so real world AFR's resemble the theoretical AFR on the fuel map?

I guess that kinda like a 2D VE map isn't it?

If only the dyno my mate and me are building was complete would make this a lot easier.

One more question.

What is the stock latency figure for the rb25?

I have a nistuned rb20 ecu running my car and the latency in there is different to the latency of the stock rb25 ecu.

Maybe this value was forgotten when I had the base image built by Nistune? This could be the reason my car has always run really rich and had a bad idle?

Any way cheers for all the help again guys.

The issue sounds like your operating the injector outside its linear zone. You may have to leave it on the rich side. I would do as I said above and not modify the maf curve.

Little update:

Planned to spend the day tuning my car. Ended up spending most of the time help my mate on his 3L and installing a Deatschwerks 300LPH fuel pump.

We had great sucess apart from my fuel gauge no longer working and i think the filter the fuel pump cam with dosn;t quite reach as far down as the stock setup, both can be fixed easily i guess.

Can you but a new stock fuel pump filter setup?

Started the car with the new pump and no tune adjustment.

Started really well but again very rich. After the car warmed up a little and closed loop took over the fueling the car idle fu*king beautiful and sat with a 14.8 - 14.9 AFR.

Starting the car I can see its still got way too much fuel in it but thats expected as I still need to adjust to injector settings.

So i'm thinking all these rough idle and missing issues for the last 2 years have been a stuffed fuel pump the whole time. Changing the injectors over just made the symptoms a lot worse.

The Deatschwerks pump was a tad over $200 including a nissan filling kit, purchased from Kudos motorsports web site. It is very quiet compaired to the noisy as hell r32GTR pump that was just removed.

Now I can start seeing what the real quality of these injectors are fuel pump are.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...