Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

It's sold out already :(

FYI You can buy it from Canada for CAD$350, which at the current exchange rate is about $340. Or from the US for US$300, which is $280 at the current exchange rate. All you'll need is a plug adapter, because it comes with a power supply that's rated for 100V-240V input.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370119-logitech-g27/#findComment-5905878
Share on other sites

For all of u chasing one I am about to sell my whole setup to fund the 34 build, it includes G27, games, desk, bride copy etc etc... I love the setup but after 12mths I miss my car too :/ PM me for details

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370119-logitech-g27/#findComment-5917302
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

correct Dezz i had mine mounted to a coffee table for a few months but it was just never quiet right

i don't use it atm but i still have it :D i paid less than $300 for mine

edit and that deal isnt on with ebay but you can get it at the logitech shop

g27wheel.jpg<<Click

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370119-logitech-g27/#findComment-6147956
Share on other sites

You can make a surprisingly good cockpit from a $10 saw horse from bunnings. Chop one side of the legs about 50 mil, attatch a small length of board for the shifter and add some weight to the friont legs for stability, I use 10 kg weights either side. And the more comfy your lounge is the better.

Once you use a G27 you never want to use a controller again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370119-logitech-g27/#findComment-6159841
Share on other sites

Not the prettiest cockpit but I seriously doubt anything could be more comfy, and totally natural driving position.

The important thing is using the weights to stabilize it, where the tape is on the legs is where i put them and it makes it completely stable

even with the power of the G27 motor.

299 is a steal I paid 499 from dicks in January this year.

post-53444-0-80343100-1324379184_thumb.jpg post-53444-0-73997600-1324379125_thumb.jpg

Edited by NISMATT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370119-logitech-g27/#findComment-6159943
Share on other sites

You could always go to a wrecker and pick up a Commodore Executive seat for next to nothing, mount it on a board and attach the hobby horse to it. No need for weights and you have a vertical adjustment for height and rails for length to suit different people. Takes up more room though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370119-logitech-g27/#findComment-6161724
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...