Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah that usually is a fault of the sensors. I know with my SR which i had a PFC on it when i revved it it told me i had knock over 150.. even on free rev with no load. pulling 5 deg timing out of the map didnt change it so had to be a f**ked sensor.

the system is only as good as the componants on board

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I actually prefer the readout and warning light in a way.

Atleast u know to back off and check it out, check temps etc.

I do like and tune alot of nistune's im just not 100% certain of how well they detect knock and switch to the knock maps.

I still set the knockmaps up.

One thing to not is the stock knock sensing on the timin maps is normally only on a small percentage of the map and i have never seen the area flagged on the map go near or above max torque, i suspect the knock sensing gets confused with valvetrain noise

I am just new to skylines...bought a R34 GTS-T recently with no such modification with engine or any performance enhancements

can anybody let me know what difference Nistune will gonna make on the performance of the car & how does the intercooler kit helps in that as well.

Hello,

Without any mods the added benefit of Nistune would be only the delimited top speed :)

If you don't plan on modifying your car a great deal then I would stick to the genuine ECU.

Hello,

Without any mods the added benefit of Nistune would be only the delimited top speed :)

If you don't plan on modifying your car a great deal then I would stick to the genuine ECU.

nistune puts a daughterboard inside the genuine ECU. Stock maps with an exhaust and intercooler cause it to run really rich, there is a rather large gain going to a nistune (or PFC etc)

Sorry if this has been covered before, but are you able to have multiple tunes (eg: economical tune & performance tune) with NIStune and be able to swap tunes with a computer?

EDIT: nvm, I found my answers, cheers :P

You can have as many maps as your laptop can hold, but Nistune knows just about one set of 'maps'

Hello,

Without any mods the added benefit of Nistune would be only the delimited top speed :)

If you don't plan on modifying your car a great deal then I would stick to the genuine ECU.

theres gains to be had with retuning the car.. nistune just allows you to alter the overly rich nissan maps.

True - but the cost of Nistune and the tune is not worth a gain of 10-13KW, is it?

I guess it all depends on your plans with your car.

I have Nistune and I like it.

But when I swapped Nistune for the standard ECU and had the car tuned I was quite unhappy.

I expected a huge power gain, but all I got was 12KW more :(

(That running the standard turbo at 12PSI)

theres gains to be had with retuning the car.. nistune just allows you to alter the overly rich nissan maps.

True - but the cost of Nistune and the tune is not worth a gain of 10-13KW, is it?

I guess it all depends on your plans with your car.

I have Nistune and I like it.

But when I swapped Nistune for the standard ECU and had the car tuned I was quite unhappy.

I expected a huge power gain, but all I got was 12KW more :(

(That running the standard turbo at 12PSI)

If the car is hitting R&R massively you will get like 110-120rwkw max with the stock ecu, with intercooler, boost to 12psi, exhaust etc you will see 150-170kw, I personally saw an increase from 109rwkw to 151rwkw with my redtop with JUST a tune, nothing else. If your car is well sorted and it for some lucky reason doesn't hit the R&R part of the map it will not be as much of a difference.

EIther way if you do ANY other mods like upgraded turbo you need a nistune or aftermarket ECU. Basically it is one of the necessary steps for any other mods so it is totally worth doing.

Edited by Rolls

My NIStune is probably the second favourite mod I have done to the car so far. Fair enough I had done all the usual mods before I got it, but Its not just about power, the power figure is just a number. It completed changed the way the car drove, improved fuel economy by an amazing amount, etc. It was bucket loads more fun after the tune.

And for what, less than 1k? Not expensive in the slightest compared to other mods I have done that made less noticeable difference.

True, as I said it depends on what plans you have with your car.

However, I was lucky enough to get about 310HP ('at the clutch') at about 10-11PSI, standard exhaust, standard intake, standard ECU.

This was as good as it got, since from there all further mods required a 're-tune' or/and new ECU.

(So I agree 100% with what you write ..) :)

If the car is hitting R&R massively you will get like 110-120rwkw max with the stock ecu, with intercooler, boost to 12psi, exhaust etc you will see 150-170kw, I personally saw an increase from 109rwkw to 151rwkw with my redtop with JUST a tune, nothing else. If your car is well sorted and it for some lucky reason doesn't hit the R&R part of the map it will not be as much of a difference.

EIther way if you do ANY other mods like upgraded turbo you need a nistune or aftermarket ECU. Basically it is one of the necessary steps for any other mods so it is totally worth doing.

Some software and hardware genuinely is better though, it is just hard to find out what is.

i tune everything and anything and dont "deal" any particular product so im not biased in any direction, i take each ecu based on its merits and out of all the brands there are there is only ONE i no longer touch and that is wolf.... for more reasons than i can post here.... timing drift being one of the prominent ones.

i tune everything and anything and dont "deal" any particular product so im not biased in any direction, i take each ecu based on its merits and out of all the brands there are there is only ONE i no longer touch and that is wolf.... for more reasons than i can post here.... timing drift being one of the prominent ones.

I'm sure you are right.

that may be the reason the EFI boys run 150mph on standard engines. Who knows

The ECU is just as good as its tuner.

I could make a $700 haltech drive better then a stock ecu, control the VCT and have boost control. Even when using them on big turbo setup's.

Forget what everyone says about ECU's and start worrying what they say about tuners, find a good one and you won't have any problems.

My opinion on Nistune is that it is great for any nissan where their setup does not suffer using a MAF, there is no real reason to go for anything else unless you have additional requirements, some ecu's can have a flex sensor and trim the map depending on how much eth content, you can even fill half the tank with e85 and half with 98 and have no worries about you're tune without having to do anything.

My friend here (another tuner) did a test on a 2jz supra with a T51r, he had it running on full sequential then ran the car on 2 injector outputs. There was 0 difference in the tune, drives the same and power is the same so he gave the car to the customer running on 2 injector outputs.

So really its not allways about the hardware you are using but how much confidence the tuner has because the technology these ecu's have these days are amazing it just takes someone to know his shit to put it to good use.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...