Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm also interested in this.

I might even get a copy of the nistune software and have a look at what features the nistune gives the R34 ECU that are tunable.

oh, and I'm a tuner mate - and I only deal with good shit. Sick of tuners only pushing haltech or some crap because that is all they know. I've seen fools cut a Ford XR6T factory ECU out and "wire in" a haltech because they had no idea how to edit a factory ECU, and we all know the XR6T ECU is by far the best ECU for it.

Its what is the most functional for the user \ car owner.

AFAIK you can't NIStune a 33 or 34 GTR ECU.

Type 2 boards cover the following earlier consult vehicles:

M30 Infiniti (VG30DE)

ECR32 Skyline (RB25DE)

ECR33 Skyline (RB25DET)*1

HCR32 Skyline (RB20DET)

BNR32 Skyline (RB26DETT)*2*3

Q45 Infiniti (VH45DE)*4

U12 Bluebird (KA24E)

Y60 Patrol (TB42E)

Z32 Fairlady 300ZX (VG30DETT)

*1 ECR33 RB25DET Skyline can use HCR32DET ECU (no VCT) or Z32 VG30DETT ECU (internal modifications required)

*2 BNCR33 Skyline requires BNR32 RB26DETT ECU and O2 sensors

*3 BNCR34 Skyline requires BNR32 RB26DETT ECU, O2 sensors and CAS wiring modifications

*4 Q45 VH45DE (1990-1992) using removed high gear maps

So everything a 32R NIStune can do.

hhhmm.

I wonder if they are much different software wise, other than the R34 ECU being modified to take to the newer o2 sensors and the CAS wiring.

I definitely wouldn't want to hack up a R34 GTR wiring loom, so I would buy a second hand R32 GTR ecu and internally mod it for the CAS. Its not hard, I made a R32 GTR powerFC work fine in a R32 GTS-T.

You do have to run the r32 GTR ecu but it seems that it plugs straight in and the only mods being the CAS and o2 sensors.

The pins in the 34 cas plug only need swapping around to make it run with the 32 ecu.

As for the o2 sensors, read the attached. Im assuming the 33 o2 sensors would be the same as the 34's.

R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR.pdf

NIStuning a 33GTR is the same as 34GTR except 34GTR needs the CAS wiring changes.

As for the MFD, I guess it would be a matter of figuring out what signals it needs from the ECU and ensuring it continued to get those signals (pinout for each ECU and one for the MFD and some head/nut scratching) at the correct voltages etc.

  • 2 weeks later...

If plugging in a BNR32 ECU into a BNR34 do we just need to swap over the 1 degree and 60 degree CAS wires to use this particular ECU? Is that all is required in addition to internally modifying the ECU. If so this is good and I just need to update my documentation to suit for people that want to use Nistune on a BNR34

When I meant about Nissan swapping the CAS lines over between models for example S15 ADM and S15 JDM have their CAS wires swapped over on the same two pins. This may be because of having NATS in ADM model

Hmm interesting..

I was just working off your documentation Matt, I haven't done a 34GTR yet.

Pretty much all the NIStune installs I have done are Type-4 boards in either 34GTT's or s2 Stageas.

Type-2 board is in my 32gtst's ECU and I will be kicking that in the guts next week.

  • 2 years later...

So are there any firm instructions on how to get the BNR32 ECU to work in a BNR34? Ie, all wiring mods needed?

I have one here ready to be nistuned but don't know for sure what needs to be done. I have only seen instructions for the BNR33.

  • 6 months later...
okay, all done. I have a nistuned R32GTR ECU running my R34 GTR. I have spoken to Matt from Nistune for some help and regarding what was needed to be done. The car runs absolutely perfect with the R32 GTR ECU.


Compared to the powerfc:


- Starts faster

- comes to idle so much quicker

- idle is heaps more stable

- car just generally runs better


After tuning the rest of the map, it runs really well.


Regarding how I did it, It is a little more than just swapping cas wires -


Differences between wiring:


Pin 8 - Ignition switch (IGN) (R34) / Pin 45 - Not used (R34)

=> Wire pin 8 to Pin 45 (R32 ECU)


Pin 10/20 - Not used (R34)

=> Pin normally for Ignition GND (R32 ECU)

Wire 10/20 to pin 50/60 to provide the R32 ECU with an ignition ground reference. After this R32 ECU will work fine in R34 ECU after speaking to Jono today and getting it working


Pin 31 - Not used (R34)

=> Wire needed to be added for consult CLK signal (R32 ECU)


Pin 41 - Camshaft position 1 deg POS (R34) / Pin 51 not used (R34)

=> Swap to 42/52 on CAS 1 deg POS (R32 ECU)


Pin 42/52 - Camshaft position 120 deg REF (R34)

=> Swap to 41/51 on CAS 120 deg REF (R32 ECU)


Pin 54 - IMMU/NATS (R34) - Don't worry about this

=> Not used (R32 ECU)


Pin 115. Heated O2 sensor control signal

=> This pin not used (R32 ECU) so wire to be connected to pin 50 (control unit ground) on R32 ECU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...